Finding Beauty with Imperfection

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I Japaned Like a Local Today

Dave and I both had to work this morning. He had legitimate work to do for the U.S. Navy and I had a conversational English (EngRish) lesson. Haha.

After my EngRish lesson, I drove to base to pick up Dave and we made a quick stop at the Commissary and Exchange. By the time we were finished with our errands it was 12:30 and we were ready for lunch.

One thing we can always agree upon to eat is Sushi. The tricky part was where and how do we get there. Sushiro (conveyor belt Sushi) is my favorite.


However, it is not convenient by train to our house. It involves a 15-20 minute walk. Here’s the dilemma. The drive home would take 23 minutes and then to catch the train and walk to the restaurant would take 25 minutes. That’s about an hour and we were already hungry. The better solution, drive to Sushiro (21 minutes). Yep, that’s right. Drive where we haven’t driven before! Fortunately, Dina and I went last week and so I kind of knew my way. Here was our Google Maps route.

We made it to lunch and home without issue or incident. Our route home.

Simultaneously, we didn’t eat other people’s Sushi orders!

I consider today a huge success at Japaning. I taught English, drove around in the Hoopty, and followed the etiquette rules for eating sushi at Sushiro.

The only bad part was that I couldn’t have a beer with my Sushi because I was driving!

Pizzeria da Michele

One of my top five favorite books is “Eat Pray Love” by Elizabeth Gilbert. If you are familiar with the book or movie, you might remember the part when she is in Italy and takes a trip to Naples. The Tandem Exchange twins she met in Rome, are from Naples and tell her she must go and eat pizza at Pizzeria da Michele.

Here is a quote from her description of the pizza from page 80 of the paperback edition.
“There’s not a menu. They have only two varieties of pizza here – regular and extra cheese. None of this new age southern California olives-and-sundried-tomato wannabe pizza twaddle. The dough, it takes me half my meal to figure out, tastes more like Indian nan than like any pizza dough I every tried. It’s soft and chewy and yielding, but incredibly thin. I always thought we only had two choices in our lives when it came to pizza crust – thin and crispy, or thick and doughy. How was I to have known there could be a crust in this world that was thin and doughy? Holy of holies! Thin, doughy, strong, gummy, yummy, chewy, salty pizza paradise. On top, there is a sweet tomato sauce that foams up all bubbly and creamy when it melts the fresh buffalo mozzarella, and the one sprig of basil in the middle of the whole deal somehow infuses the entire pizza with herbal radiance, much the same way one shimmering movie star in the middle of a party brings a contact high of glamour to everyone around her. It’s technically impossible to eat this thing, of course. You try to take a bite off your slice and the gummy crust folds, and the hot cheese runs away like a topsoil in a landslide, makes a mess of you and your surroundings, but just deal with it.”

I remember the first time I read that passage in 2008. Dave and I were driving home to Germantown, TN from our spring break trip to St. Pete’s Beach, FL. I was reading as he drove and read the passage aloud to him saying something like, listen to how good this pizza sounds. Much to my surprise and to my delight, there is also a Pizzeria da Michele in Tokyo. Both are owned by the same franchise. A friend told me about it and I marked it in Google Maps. When I was looking at Google Maps to see what was around our hotel, I saw the star I had placed last week. Seemed like the perfect Saturday pre-marathon carbo load lunch! We are the gray dot next to Shinjuku station and Pizzeria da Michele is the gold star by Ebisu station. Only 5 train stops away on the Yamanote line.

We arrived at 11:21 am. The restaurant opens at 11:30. We were first in line. By the time they opened the doors, there were 2 groups behind us. When we left an hour later, the restaurant was full and several groups were waiting for a table.

This menu was on the wall outside the restaurant.

We were seated at a table for two and we were given a menu. The menu included several appetizers and only two kinds of pizza. With or without cheese.

While we waited for our food, we watched them preparing pizzas. The pizza maker is behind the glass partition. He hand rolls the dough and adds the toppings. The pizza baker is standing in front of the oven. One person makes the pizza, one person bakes the pizza.

The oven was HUGE.

We started our meal with a green salad. The lettuce was so fresh and tender.

We finished our meal with the double mozzarella pizza.

It was just as delicious as Elizabeth Gilbert described. The first bite!

The pizza doesn’t come cut. On the table are knives and forks so you can cut your slice.

I found it easiest to fold and roll the slice and then bite. None the less, I had grease all over my hands and pants by the time I was finished.

It was an expensive pizza experience. The double mozzarella pizza costs ¥2000 about $18.50. Every bite was worth it and it was cheaper than flying to Italy!

I boldly stated to Dave, the pizza made it on my list of top 5 pizzas ever and  it was by far the best pizza we have had in Japan. I did make it clear it wasn’t better than Piece in Chicago. He said it was good and would go back. He thought the mozzarella and sauce were a little too liquidity. Maybe, but that crust!

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A short follow-up to yesterday’s post about our hotel. Here is a picture of the view from the room this morning. Mt. Fuji!

Also, I learned the hotel has Hello Kitty themed rooms. How did I miss this!?! I looked up the price of the room. A one night stay with breakfast included is ¥74,056 or about $660. Seems like I should be staying in one of those rooms for free considering my running outfit for tomorrow!!

Tokyo Marathon Expo

The Tokyo Marathon Expo is being held at Tokyo Big Sight. Tokyo Big Sight is a ginormous convention center located in the south east area of Tokyo. This is an area of Tokyo we have not had the opportunity to visit yet. Here was our route on the train. 


The fun part of the trip was going on the blue section or the Yurikamome Line. It goes over “Rainbow Bridge.” On the map, the green area is called “Aqua City” and we could see shopping and an amusement park. This will be an area worth exploring in the future. 


The expo is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The marathon is on Sunday. We decided to go to the expo on Thursday night because heard it only gets more crowded as the race day approaches. Plus, it isn’t really close to where we will be staying in Tokyo during marathon weekend. 

I’m truly glad we went when we did. I can’t imagine the crowds! 36,000 runners all have to pick up their number, wrist band, tshirts and timing chip. Yes, we have to wear a wrist band until we finish the marathon. It was put on by security and verified it matched my bib number. The band will also be screened at the start to allow me to enter and ensure I didn’t give away my number. 

Finding the expo once we were off the train was easy. There were workers pointing the way. 


Big Sight Tokyo was definitely big and a sight! There was a light up display with audio. 


First stop, number pick up. They had a special section for foreign runners. That’s us! 


Like I said, I’m so glad we came early. There were no lines! And my timing chip is good to go! 


How cute is this, they had a board with everyone’s name, organized by number. Dave found our names! 


From here, we entered the expo part of the expo and had plenty of photo opportunities, give aways and demonstrations. 


I forgot to mention they gave us a free beer, too! 


So much to see! 


It was undeniably the largest expo we have ever experienced. Two entire floors and a food court. 


The only disappointing part was the lack of Tokyo Marathon 2017 swag. There were a lot of tshirts and zip ups but, not things like pint glasses or beer coasters! 


The animated course map was one of my favorite pictures. It just makes me want to run… HAPPY!! 

Japanese Hotel

Thursday evening, Dave spontaneously suggested we take time to sightsee in Tokyo for the long weekend. The New Sanno was booked, of course, so I made us reservations for a room at the APA Hotel in Asakusa. Asakusa is on the east side of Tokyo. We have not really explored this area yet. We are the blue dot in the photo. 


I used several of the local Facebook pages to select the hotel. It came with good recommendations and the suggestion to bring your own pillows. Haha. Seriously, I wish we would have listened! They are flat! We were provided robes set with crane origami. 


The room is tiny and a great deal. About $85 a night! Besides a bed, window and full bath, it has two pairs of slippers for each of us, a fridge, a place to hang stuff, steam pot, humidifier and a TV. 

Check out all 118 square feet. 

Perfect fit!?! 


The only place for our carry on sized suitcase was in front of the door. Putting the suitcase in front of the door is a bit of a hazard. We therefore had a serious conversation about egress. Dave promised to get us both out in the event of an emergency. Safety is paramount. 

A place to hang stuff. 

Bed. Window. TV. 


The bathroom is adorable. The sink and shower faucet are controlled by the same spot! 


The toiletries were fully stocked. 


Ironically, the only oversized item is the soap, conditioner and shampoo! 


Honestly, it’s part of the Japanese experience. And it’s only for two nights. Tomorrow, I plan on taking Dave to at least seven temples (another Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimage) and possibly another two to see Ume Blossoms. In the afternoon, perhaps we can make it to the Tokyo Skytree. My tourist list is long as always! 

Tall and Small

Dina and I went to Kamakura to do a little shopping. After walking down Komachi Dori for a little bit, we were ready for lunch and decided to enjoy a bowl of ramen. The first place we found was closed. I did a quick “ramen near me” search on Google Maps.

 Google Maps led us to Hirano. 

Turns out, Hirano is the Japan’s smallest ramen joint. The sign out front was hysterical. 


As we were reading the sign, we thought we should first check to see if there was room for us before determining our order. As luck would have it, when we opened the door, three people came out. Therefore, plenty of room! 


There were actually two more seats available. Seven seats total. (Can you see all 4 customers? Plus me taking the picture.) 

Our chef in the kitchen. 


Ironically, the smallest ramen joint in Japan still serves ginormous bowls of ramen. 


I ordered the #4 special ramen. Miso base with a little spice. It was good. It made the top five of my favorite ramen joints mainly because of the restaurant itself. 


Seriously, could this place be any funnier!?!


Perhaps, when Dina poses for me! 

Kamakura is full of so many bizarre and unique experiences. I truly can’t wait to take you there when you visit! 

Here are my finds from our shopping. Can you tell it is Sakura Season? A couple bowls, plates, chopstick rests and adorable cats. Kawaii!! 

Sogo Yokohama

I went on a shopping trip today to the department store, Sogo, in Yokohama. My mission was to visit the Sanrio store for a Hello Kitty t-shirt to wear during the Tokyo Marathon. 

I didn’t find one. Turns out the Sanrio stores only stock kids stuff. However, I did find a whole new feature of Google Maps. 

Google Maps will show you the stores on each floor of a mall. Check out the first picture. It shows the B2 level or the second floor of the basement. It is at this level where you come out of the train station. The highlighted level on the side corresponds with the map layout. 


Next B1. 


As you scroll up the floor on the left side, the layout changes to match. Pretty amazing. Skipping ahead, level 2 & 3. 


When I first saw level 7, I got a little excited. It says LOFT. This was not the LOFT from the US. It was a cute store with a lot of Japan souvenirs. Just not cute clothes. 


Finally, on up to level 8 where the Sanrio was located. Lots of cute Hello Kitty toys and clothes for little kids. No t-shirt for me. I think I’m going to have to order from Amazon. 


With 10 levels plus a rooftop, this feature of Google Maps is essential! 

Google Maps proves yet again to be my favorite traveling partner for navigation! 

Shinjuku Seven Lucky Gods

The “Shichifukujin” or Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimages are quickly becoming one of my favorite adventures. The pilgrimage reminds me of a modern day urban scavenger hunt. You must find the Seven Temples/Shrines, stamp your temple book and retrieve your cute figurine. All of this while using Google Maps, a map found on the Internet and if you’re lucky, a little bit of broken English from a monk. Or as in case today, a monk who spoke no English but was great with giving directions in Japanese while pointing at a map. I’ll come back to that story in a little bit.

This is my third Seven Lucky Gods adventure. First in Meguro and then in Zushi. Each time, I receive information about the God’s meaning. I will share what information I was given today, which may vary a little bit from what I have told you previously.

Dina and I set out this morning to Shinjuku. Shinjuku is located on the northwest side of Tokyo. It was a little over an hour away. Here was our route.


Yesterday, I marked all of the temple/shrine locations with a star so it would be easier to navigate between them. We started at the bottom and walked toward the center cluster. Then walked to the temple on the far left. Then we took the train to the two temples on the far right.


At our first temple, Taiso-ji, we collected Hotei and purchased the boat the Gods would rest upon. Hotei: God of family, peace and protection from illness and disaster.


From here we walked towards the Hozen-ji Temple. However, we were sidetracked along the way by an amazing bakery.


I enjoyed a delicious chocolate croissant. I felt super lucky it was chocolate and not red bean paste!

Around the corner was the temple.


Here we collected Jurojin. Jurojin: God of long life and protection from illness.


Our third stop was at the Itsukushima-Jinja Shrine. It was literally in the corner of an intersection. There was a Koi Pond, Tori Gate and Shrine. Yet, no person was present.


We decided to continue our journey to the fourth temple, Eifuku-ji Temple. We thought perhaps we could ask at the fourth temple where to go for the third stop.


As I learned in my previous pilgrimage, one must be bold and knock on a door or ring a bell or even just walk inside the temple. Feeling brave, Dina and I went into the temple. There was a small doorbell next to a cushion. In English, it said “bell.” So, we pushed it. Simultaneously, there was a motion detector that kept going off when we moved. Behind the closed doors, we could hear someone moving around. In fact, it sounded like he was doing gymnastics. So, we waited. And rang the bell again. And waited. And rang the bell again. Finally, a monk came out not because he was responding to our ringing. He was doing his monkly business and we startled him so badly we thought we might have helped him finish his path to enlightenment. He almost fell over. We tried not to laugh. He recovered immediately and promptly came over, greeted us, set out cushions for us to sit upon and then went to stamp our books. It was incredibly hard not to giggle. When he returned, before we could even ask how to get to temple number three, he took out a map and started explaining how to get there, in Japanese. Very fast Japanese.


To summarize, we were at the purple dot and needed to got to the small blue dot. We had been at the large blue dot in the middle of the intersection. Again, all in Japanese with finger pointing and charades.

Before leaving, we collected Fukurokuju. Fukurokuji: God of health, happiness, and long life.


The other strange part of the conversation was that the monk was so happy to give us directions he almost forgot to give us Fukurokuji. We finally asked and held up our fingers showing little God. More charades…  Ahhhh, hai!

Perhaps, the funniest part, we actually made it to the Itsukushima Temple. Here we collected Benzai-ten. Banzai-ten: Goddess of music, arts, and speech.



Plus, a few early cherry blossom pictures!


Our fifth stop was at the Inari Kio-jinja Shrine. This shrine was so tucked away!!


We collected Ebisu-jin. Ebisu-jin: God of prosperous business.


My favorite picture at this shrine was of the banana at the alter. It seems to be glowing!


To get to the final two temples, we took the train to save a little time and warm up!

Our sixth temple was at the Kyo-o-ji Temple. Here we collected Daikoku-ten. Daikoku-ten: God of grain harvest and wealth.


At this temple, there were many cute statues.


Inside the shrine, we were greeted by a monk who encouraged us to open the window and shake the mallet three times for our wish to come true. So, of course, we shook and wished!!


Our final temple was Zentoku-ji Temple. This temple is dedicated to Bishamon-ten. Bisamon-ten: God of protection from disaster and evil.

The completed Seven Lucky Gods of Shinjuku.
We never received an explanation of the boat during our adventure and so, I looked it up when we returned home. One explanation is the Seven Lucky Gods travel together on a treasure ship (Takarabune) and visit Japanese ports on New Year’s Eve to dispense happiness. Also, the symbol on the flag of the ship is the Chinese character for BAKU. BAKU is a fictional creature said to devour or prevent nightmares. Children are told to place a picture of the ship with the Gods under their pillow on the evening of January first. If the child has a good dream that night, they will be lucky all year.

It was a fun and successful day exploring another part of Tokyo. Honestly, I was pretty impressed with our navigation skills and ability to find all seven Temples/Shrines.

Japan Brewers Cup 2017 

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m a beer snob. When we learned about the Japan Brewers Cup 2017, I wasn’t quite sure it would be all that. 


Until I realized there was an IPA category. Yes! Dina and her husband accompanied Dave and I and together we took the train to Yokohama. The event was held at Ōsanbashi Pier. Here was our route. 


The Brewers Cup was much less crowded, with more breweries and more English than I expected. The beer variety was very impressive. 

We started with a sampler.


Kanpie! 


Interestingly, Founders All Day Session IPA was #2 in the World Cup. 


The number one IPA is pictured here – they wouldn’wouldn’t let me take a picture of their sign. It was awkward. So, I took from a far. 


There were beers to the left of us and beers to the right… 


It was pretty fun, until Japanese pop music started.​ And we needed to go. To save our eardrums… 

Taya Cavern

“Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

I received a very nice compliment today. I took Dina to a temple she had yet to visit and to one she had never even heard about after living here for almost two years. She applauded my efforts for setting out and blazing a trail. She gave me the Emerson quote and I have never felt more honored. However, I can’t take too much credit. Because…

Google Maps is pretty amazing. I have become a very confident explorer now that I have learned many of “hidden” (obvious) features. Like the blue arrow that points in the direction you are headed, or the way you can drop a pin on a location and find directions, hours and reviews. This is how I found the Taya Cavern. Seriously. I was just goofing around with Google Maps looking for stuff to do and I found the Taya Cavern which is part of the Josenji-Temple. The pilgrimage to Taya Caverns/Josenji-Temple required a train ride to Ofuna and then a 30-minute urban hike. It was another beautiful day with clear blue skies. Dina still needed to visit The White Lady of Ofuna and it was pretty much on the way. We decided to do both… after lunch!

Lunch! A salad pizza. I might add this to my favorite “pizza” in Japan. I have learned to set expectations low with respect to familiar foods because they just don’t taste the same. This pizza was different and delicious!

A few pictures of one of my favorite temples. You can read more about The White Lady of Ofuna here.

While we were walking around, we discussed how spectacular these Cherry Blossoms will be in a couple months.

After visiting the White Lady, we were off for a 30-minute urban hike to Josenji-Temple. It was tucked away off the side of the road. However, Google Maps led me straight to the entrance without fail!

A pleasant surprise, Ume Blossoms (plum blossoms) were just beginning to bloom.

At the temple, there was a shrine dedicated hundreds of Jizo statues. I needed to research the Jizo a little more. While visiting the shrine, we were left with the impression it was dedicated to children who had passed away. My research informed me the Jizo is a bodhisattva revered among Japanese Buddhists, and the protector of travelers, expectant mothers, and children. This explains the additions to many of the statues within the shrine.

Next, we walked across a small path to the entrance of the caverns. According to the information provided by the Temple, the caverns date back to 1192 and took 500 years to reach the capacity they are today. The caverns were originally 1000m in length however, only 300m are available to visitors. The caverns were hand carved by Buddhist monks seeking enlightenment. “To attain enlightenment, disciples entered the cave. They performed 21-day fasts, sitting in religious meditation, and digging the caves by hand.”

Understanding the caverns were hand carved, we can look past how height challenged Dina and I felt throughout our walk.

Upon entering, we lit our candle and used it to guide us through our passage. No worries, there are also several LED lights along the way!

We were also provided a holder for our candle. It was an amazing experience to walk throughout the tunnels with our candle. I will be honest. We relied on each other several time to relight because candles do not like to move quickly!

One of the MANY carvings. A fish, no a bird, no a dragon!

This is a picture of the ceiling at one of the 17 circle areas designed for worship.

One of many alters throughout the caverns.

Fortunately, the only bat we saw in the cave!

And of course, a Cock!

Several Buddhist sitting upon a lotus flower

At one point while we were walking through the caverns, it became really warm and moist. It was definitely not what one would expect when walking through caves in the winter. I attempted to take a picture of the walls. They were covered in moisture. I told Dina I felt as though I was walking through someone’s mouth it was that humid and damp. It was a little gross.

More carvings…

A couple more pictures to give to an idea of how much we had to duck! And our cool candle holders!

Perhaps my favorite picture. A Buddha carving appearing to hold my candle.

More carvings and a shrine.

At one point, we heard what seemed like a massive amount of flowing water. It was the small drainage pipe hidden behind the faux pine bough. According to my research, splashing water from this “noiseless stream” on a part of your body that causes pain, will heal it. Too bad I didn’t read this before we went for our visit!

It was a very special day. I was excited to take my Japan-savvy friend somewhere she had yet to go and together experience something off the beaten path.

Mitsui Outlet Park

After our trip to Costco, Dina and I decided to check out the Mitsui Outlet Park at the Yokohama Bayside Marina. A quick selfie before getting our shopping on.


The outlets had several name brand American stores. Eddie Bauer, GAP, Coach, UA, Nike, and New Balance, just to name a few. It also had a gigantic whale tail in the center and windmill at one end, because it’s Japan.



I was pretty excited about seeing an Eddie Bauer. The funny part, the store only had petite sizes.

At Under Armour, I was able to find a solution to my latest problem. I found two new pairs of gloves. One pair for running and one pair for going out on liberty.


Here is an explanation of my problem. When riding the train on date night and during the weekends I typically enjoy a Chu-hai or three. It is a cold drink. In the winter, I have on gloves to keep my hands warm from the cold air and the Chu-hai. I hold the drink in my left hand leaving my right hand available to use my phone to scan my train card, check the train schedule or message as required. Under the influence of a couple or four Chu-hai, even with tech-friendly gloves, I need to remove my glove to accurately and efficiently type on my phone. This resulted in me losing my right glove not once but twice on the trains this past weekend! I needed a solution and I found it at UA. Mitten tops that fold back with a cut out for the thumb! Amazing! Absolutely amazing!


Performance ready! I’m excited for our date night on Friday! Fingers crossed I make it home with two gloves!


Another wonderful discovery of our shopping adventure was a store called Franc Franc. The store carries very cute household items. I purchased an aroma humidifier.


To compliment my aroma humidifier, I purchased the Love Beach aroma water. It smells delightfully like a beach. The label made me happy as well. It has the “wabi-sabi” motto.


“Being happy doesn’t mean everything is perfect. It means you’ve decided to see beyond the imperfections.”

One last funny story for the day. While shopping at Franc Franc, Dina and I both had accumulated a carry style shopping basket full of items to purchase. The baskets were awkward because we had the humidifier balanced precariously in them. One of the store workers came up to us and asked in Japanese and charades if she could take our baskets. Having no idea what she said we said, “hai” or yes. She took the baskets and Dina and I were laughing because as normal, we had no idea what she said. We decided she didn’t want the already tall and space taking up Americans to take up any further room. We were obviously interrupting the store “wa.” She returned with two cards. They were the markers for our baskets which were located behind the counter.

The Japanese can be amazingly efficient at times.

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