Finding Beauty with Imperfection

Category: Kamakura

Happy Pancakes & Money Washing

I am not sure I could think of a better start to a Tuesday morning than with a happy pancake. Dina and I set off for breakfast in Kamakura followed by a urban hike to the Zeniarai Benten Shrine. We arrived at Happy Pancake slightly before it opened and there was already a line!

Fortunately, we were early enough to be seated and selected our pancakes. We both opted for the original “happy pancakes” for our first tasting.

We when visit when you are here, I will encourage you to try one of the specialty happy pancake selections. They include options like fresh fruit, chocolate sauce, cream cheese and even a scoop of ice cream. To wash down my happy pancakes, I ordered a caramel vanilla latte.

That is a scoop of honey butter on top!! These pancakes are nothing like American pancakes. They are NOT made with buttermilk. They are not heavy nor do they absorb the syrup. The texture is light and fluffy. More like a crepe that has been inflated. The syrup had a hint of caramel and they were topped with a scoop of honey butter.

They were absolutely delicious! I did not feel nearly as full as I anticipated. Don’t get me wrong, I wasn’t hungry for lunch. I just didn’t feel the lethargic pancake bloat one would expect when looking at these delicious monster-sized happy pancakes.

After we finished our meal, I had to take a picture of the check. Noticed it is placed on our table with a cute and tiny clothespin. Adorable.

We headed out on our urban hike. We had about a 25 minute walk to the Zeniarai Benten Shrine. Despite the December date, signs of fall are still around.

The Zeniarai Benten Shrine is commonly known as the “Money Washing Shrine.” The legend claims, money washed in the Shrine’s spring will double. Information from the temple provided the background for the legend. 1185 was the first year of the snake. (Think back to yesterday’s discussion about Chinese Zodiac. 1185 was the first year of the snake.) During this first year of the snake, on the day of the snake, in the month of the snake, Minamoto Yoritomo (founder of Kamakura government) had a dream in which the go Ugafukuji (one of the 7 lucky gods – God of fortune and happiness) delivered a message. Minamoto Yoritomo was told to go and find a spring in the northwest valley, worship the Shinto gods and peace would come to the people of Kamakura. He went, he discovered the spring and he built the shrine for Ugakukuji. It is believed, if you spend money that has been washed in the spring’s water, it will increase many times and come back to you.

To access the Shrine, you had to walk up a rather long hill and then through a small tunnel. It was lovely.

Inside the grounds of the Shrine, was a prayer wall, fortune wall and huge incense burner.

Walking further in, was the area for washing your money.

Dina snapped a few pictures as I washed my money from the spring.

And of course I took a few action shots of Dina. My favorite is her face when I said, “say, money!”

After we thoroughly soaked our money, we explored the rest of the temple. I observed more paper cranes. Since my visit to The White Lady of Ofuna, I have learned the meaning of the paper crane leis. Thanks to the help of a couple of my close friends and blog followers, Sara and Sue. During a conference call earlier this week they helped me piece together an understanding of their significance. The significance is based upon a story of a young Japanese girl, Sadako Sasaki (1943-1955). She was only two years old when the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima very near to her home (~2km away from ground zero). She miraculously survived, only to develop swellings on her neck and behind her ears in 1954. The swellings turned out to be acute malignant lymph gland leukemia. She died less than a year later. It was during her time in the hospital she learned of the Japanese legend that a person who folds 1,000 cranes will be granted a wish. Legend holds she was 644 short when she passed away. Her family and friends folded the remaining cranes and buried all 1,000 cranes with her. Sadako became one of the most widely known hibakusha (bomb-affected person).

It was interesting to see all the tori gates in natural wood – not painted red.

We retrieved our temple books with the new stamp and headed back to Kamakura.

The hike back was beautiful as well. To get back, we had to go up before we went down!!

It was another delightful day exploring Kamakura. This last picture was one of my favorites from the day.  I took it as we were leaving the Shrine. I love the fall colors, the fortunes hanging and the trees framing the picture. It really spoke to me as “wabi-sabi” when I noticed the bright orange construction cone. Beauty in the imperfection.

Red Leaf Trail

The Kamakura Red Leaf Trail or the Kamakura Ten-en Hiking Course is located near the Kita-Kamakura train station. It was about a 25 minute train ride/ walk to the trail head from where we live. From what I read, on a clear day, you can see Mt. Fuji. Let’s hope today is clear enough! Fortunately, before leaving the train station, I snapped a quick picture of the route. 


We were entering through the neighborhood and it was very useful to have the map for reference as we walked towards the trail head. We were also pretty lucky to have the trail head well marked. Also notice on the sign is the sign for a Buddhist temple. It looks like a reverse swastika. The first time I saw it, I had to do a double take and ask Google for clarification. It is in no way associated with any anti-Semite movement. In fact, completely the opposite. It means, “that which is associated with well being.”

A front yard! Lakewood circle needs some of these bridges!

Another front yard!

The only red leaf tree I saw on the Red Leaf Trail.

A shrine, of course

And another shrine.


We continued on our way and found a cute little neighborhood lending library. Too bad all the books are in Japanese! 


A few more signs marking the trail head. Be cautious not to follow the direction of the hiker man! 

The roads are so narrow, mirrors are helpful!


This sign was my favorite of the day. The Japanese don’t like to tell you NO or NOT to do something. Sometimes it is absolutely necessary. For example, “Don’t Litter.”  So, when they do, it is said so nicely and with rainbows. 


Finally, at the trail head and up we go… 

Yokohama in the background

Obviously, the Red Leaf Trail is not living up to its name. I will need to return in a few more weeks to capture the foliage. 

We made it to the top and went out onto the overlook. After a minute of getting our bearings, we saw Mt. Fuji!! And a Japanese sea hawk!! 

Every time I have a chance to see Mt. Fuji, I get very excited. Often the clouds are blocking it. Having the opportunity to catch a partial glimpse is spectacular. 

After viewing Mt. Fuji from the lookout, we headed down a lot of stairs to a temple. 

Steps going down to the Temple

Pray cards

Another glimpse of Fuji

Even in Japan Pokémon isn’t appreciated everywhere.

Steps going back up


Once back on the trail, we finished the hike at another… Temple! 


The temples might be an unexpected aspect about Japan I truly appreciate. The temples are welcoming to all visitors regardless of faith. They encourage you to visit and ask nothing in return other than kindness. Honestly, the world could use a little more kindness. The Gardens of temples are meticulously maintained and provided great care. When you visit, I hope to share with you a few of my favorites. 

Continuing on our way through Kamakura to the train station, we passed through another temple. Fortunately for us, it is the Japanese holiday, “Culture Day.”  It is a day the Japanese nationals spend appreciating and teaching the youth about Japanese culture. We saw several kids dressed in kimonos. 


And a wedding!! 


This trail and walk through Kamakura will definitely be on Julia’s tour list. Hope you can join us! 

PS. Go, Cubbies!! 

Field Trip! 

As part of our ICR we were taken on a field trip to Kamakura. Here we were able to see both a Shinto Shrine and Great Buddha. I absolutely LOVED exploring today.  It was the first day that I really felt, “hey, we are in Japan!”  Visiting Kamakura will definitely be on “Julia’s Japan Tour.” Once in Kamakura, we walked to the Shinto Shrine. 


The dogs stand guard in front of the shrine protecting it. Also, there are a series of three torii (gates) leading to the shrine, which is actually a Buddhist temple.  Each torii is sized differently than the previous one and the sidewalk narrows as it approaches. This gives the impression the holy area is further away and larger than actuality. The complete walk begins at the beach and runs 1.8 km.  We walked about half of the walk.

When approaching the temple, the most direct way is up and over a steep bridge. The bridge is steep because one should not be in a hurry when approaching God. You will notice the bridge is blocked. This is because only the Chosen One is allowed to cross the bridge.


While visiting the Shrine, we saw a couple having wedding photos taken.


This might be my favorite spot of the Shrine. These are barrels of Saki that are brought as offerings to the Gods. Because of course Gods will be thirsty and need Saki!


The Senior Shrine, (Hongū), is 61 steps above the Junior Shrine.  In the picture is also a significant tree stump.  The tree stump was a 1,000 year old Ginko Tree that was uprooted in March 2010 during a storm.  The tree was cut down and the stump remains.


The actual Shrine sits a top a hill. Again, the placement is designed to make it more grand and deliver a bigger impression on the mortals.


Sometimes, it pays not to speak the language.  This is a picture I took inside the Shrine.  A place where pictures should not be taken.  Ooops.


A significant part of visiting the Shrine is to write your fortune (wish or prayer) and place it into a box.  It is then transcribed onto one of the wooden Ginko leaves.  At the end of the year, all the fortunes (Ginko Leaves) are burned releasing the fortune will come true.  In the picture below, a family is placing their fortune into the the box.


A less expensive way to have your fortune come true, is to write it on a strip of paper.  Then tie the strip to the rope.  The same principle applies.  At the end of the year, the paper is burned and your fortune is released and will come true.


After visiting the Shrine, we were HOT!  After passing at least 3 ice cream stores, we decided to stop.  Dave opted not to have his in a cone.  Instead they put his ice cream on ice!


I did get my ice cream in a cone and it was AH-mazing.  The cone was more like a French pastry and it was WARM!  Ridiculously good.  I will admit, I ordered blueberry.  Obviously, a very safe choice.  Next time I get ice cream in Japan, I will get the green tea flavor.


So yummy.  Not sure if you can tell in the picture, it was served with a fork.  Also, the family that sat down across from us giggled at me when I realized you could tear away the paper.  I was so excited and the ice cream was as much fun to eat as it was to taste. Directions for eating ice cream, of course!


After our ice cream pit stop, we took a train to Hase to visit the Great Buddha.  Today was “Mountain Holiday” in Japan.   

The Great Buddha was extra crowded because the locals had off work. 


This picture makes me happy…


What a fantastic day of sight-seeing and truly being able to discover a little of the country we now call home.

PS.  More great news.  Long story short… My newest friend, another spouse, went to Fleet Rec while we were on the field trip and signed us up to climb Mt. Fuji! #navyspousesrock  We will climb 8/27!  Super super super excited!

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