Wabi-Sabi Sole

Finding Beauty with Imperfection

Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum

By

On March 5, 2017

In Japan, Ramen

Dave and I rode the train up to Shin-Yokohama to visit the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum. The trip took less than an hour and only two trains. The museum opened at 10:30 and we arrived by 11:00. We have learned, when in Japan, always be early! 


The entrance to the museum is at ground level. The museum is marked by a giant bowl of ramen, of course! 

The two floors of the actual museum are in the basement. At the museum, there are a variety of ramen from different regions in Japan. There are a total of nine different ramen restaurants. Does the numbering of this sign bother you? Haha


The museum is decorated to create the feeling of Japan of yesterday. 


We were given an English pamphlet to help us learn about the different types. Notice there is no order to how the numbers are assigned to the ramen. 


We selected the number 9 ramen restaurant. Here is the description. 


And pictures. Dave picked the salt based ramen.


And I selected the soy sauce based ramen. 


Nom nom nom… 


Happiness is a giant bowl of ramen. 


Apparently, there was an option to buy a smaller quantity just for tasting. We were ordering using a machine and a lot was lost in translation. In the end, it was just as well because, the lines were ridiculously long by the time we finished eating. This was the line for where we just finished eating! 

I took this picture from the balcony of the second floor (B1) looking down to the first basement floor (B2). So many people standing in orderly lines! 

It was a fun experience. We went on a Sunday and expected crowds. Honestly, it wasn’t “the best ramen” I’ve had since living here. However, it would be a good opportunity to taste ramen from another region. When you visit and want to go, I will suggest we try the Okinawa ramen (#5). Another positive, we can return later on the same day because re-entry is allowed! 

I Japaned Like a Local Today

By

On March 4, 2017

In Google Map, Japan, Nissan Cube, Sushiro

Dave and I both had to work this morning. He had legitimate work to do for the U.S. Navy and I had a conversational English (EngRish) lesson. Haha.

After my EngRish lesson, I drove to base to pick up Dave and we made a quick stop at the Commissary and Exchange. By the time we were finished with our errands it was 12:30 and we were ready for lunch.

One thing we can always agree upon to eat is Sushi. The tricky part was where and how do we get there. Sushiro (conveyor belt Sushi) is my favorite.


However, it is not convenient by train to our house. It involves a 15-20 minute walk. Here’s the dilemma. The drive home would take 23 minutes and then to catch the train and walk to the restaurant would take 25 minutes. That’s about an hour and we were already hungry. The better solution, drive to Sushiro (21 minutes). Yep, that’s right. Drive where we haven’t driven before! Fortunately, Dina and I went last week and so I kind of knew my way. Here was our Google Maps route.

We made it to lunch and home without issue or incident. Our route home.

Simultaneously, we didn’t eat other people’s Sushi orders!

I consider today a huge success at Japaning. I taught English, drove around in the Hoopty, and followed the etiquette rules for eating sushi at Sushiro.

The only bad part was that I couldn’t have a beer with my Sushi because I was driving!

My Favorite Patio

By

On March 3, 2017

In Japan

One of my neighbors moved back to the U.S. this week. Before leaving, she passed along a variety of outdoor decorations and pieces of furniture.

She gave me four hanging trellises and several potted plants. Yesterday, Dina and I went to D2 and Homes to purchase hanging containers and plants. After a little TLC and gardening this morning, I was able to put together a welcoming entrance to our house!

I love the trellises. The two potted evergreens, table and chairs were all gifts from my neighbor.

I love all my plants. They make me so happy and gave me so much joy potting them and arranging them. I didn’t realize how much I was as missing being able to garden until I had a conversation with my girlfriend, Jennifer. During one of our weekly chats, she told me she spent most of her weekend working in her yard during the beautiful weather the East Coast has been experiencing. I felt a little tug and realized I missed having plants and flowerbeds to nurture. Working in my garden yesterday and today helped – a lot! I find gardening very therapeutic.

After all my hard work, I enjoyed a beer on my new favorite patio. The one right outside our kitchen slider.

It can’t compare to our kitchen view of Lake Michigan in NSGL. But, it’s home. And it’s beer. I hope when you’re in the neighborhood you will stop by and enjoy a pint or glass of wine. Or better yet, One or three of Julia’s margaritas!

Happy Friday! Kanpie!

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I need a little help from my gardening friends to identify this plant. It has a beautiful fragrance and just started blooming.


It is very compact and has flowers blooming in clusters. It didn’t lose it’s leaves during winter. I thought it might be a rhododendron?

Sakura is the Japanese Pumpkin 

By

On March 1, 2017

In Japan, Sakura

Dina, Miki, and I went up to Yokohama for lunch. We are at an American style pizza buffet restaurant called Shakey’s. It was ok. After eating at Pizza da Michele on Saturday, I should probably avoid any pizza for a while to avoid disappointment. 

After lunch we walked around Yokohama station and explored the shopping area. Sakura season is quickly approaching. As a result, Japan has turned everything Sakura flavored. From Sakura lattes at Starbucks to Sakura Rosé. The bottle of Sakura wine was so cute, I couldn’t resist purchasing it! It has actual Sakura flowers in the wine! 


A unique Sakura product I found was Sakura tea. The product has the consistency of soft jelly. To prepare the tea, place a teaspoon into a tea cup and add hot water. Stir until the jelly dissolves. We were able to sample the tea at the store. It was delicious and relaxing as advertised! 


Miki also shared with us her favorite desserts from Baum Kuchen. Here the desserts are being baked. As each layer is added, it is dipped and then baked. Creating the ring effect of the layers. 


I purchased a sample of the regular flavor and the Sakura flavor. 


They look flakey and delicious. 

Check out the delicious layers. 


Dave and I agreed our favorite part was the outside edge with the icing. I can’t promise I tasted the Sakura. It was sweet and yummy. Honestly, that is all that matters! 

Sole Adventures-Tokyo Marathon 

By

On February 26, 2017

In 2017, Hello Kitty, Japan, Mt. Fuji, Running, Tangerine, Tokyo, Tokyo Marathon

Tokyo Marathon 2017 set the bar high with respect to race amenities and organization. 

Before I get into how amazing it was, let’s start with a picture of Dave and me in our corral G waiting for the start. 


We had about an hour to kill, so we took a couple other pictures. A selfie of us and one of Hello Kitty. 


I couldn’t pass up a picture of Hello Kitty with Mt. Fuji. Kawaii! 


Now onto the details of the race. Going through security was painless. We could see the start line from our hotel room and also Mt. Fuji if you look closely into the haze. 


Security opened at 7am. There were approximately 36,000 runners and I knew it would be best to be ahead of the crowds. We left our room at 7:15. I expected it would take us about an hour to get out of the hotel (slow elevators from the 28th floor), walk to our Gate, pass through security, use the restroom and then finally make our way to our start corral. Actually it only took us about 45 minutes. Being early and ahead of the crowd helped. 

The race started promptly at 9:10. We were passing the start line about 8 minutes later. Again, I expected 9:20ish. 


After we started, I put my phone away. Sorry, no more pictures. I took off the case and was worried I would drop it and there were so many people I was worried I would trip fooling around with it. 

Here are some highlights. Being dressed at Hello Kitty made the race a blast. Running on the outside, near the spectators, drew lots of “kawaii” and “Hello Kitty” comments. I would wave and smile. I felt like a celebrity. Simultaneously, by mile six, I was getting tired of waving. Haha. I made Dave move us over to the middle! 

The amount of spectators was unreal. They were literally lining the streets the entire way! They were cheering and had a variety of different noise makers. Surprisingly, we never heard any cowbell! 

The aid stations were every 2-3km. Yes, the entire race was measured in kilometers. Pathetically, we enjoyed doing the math to convert the kilometers to miles to help pass the time. ? Every aid station had water and every other station had Pocari Sweat, the Japanese equivalent to Gatorade. After the halfway point, certain aid stations had bananas, tangerines, tomatoes, and a bread with something in it. I thought it was bean paste. Dave tried the bread and said no, it was chocolate! He also enjoyed several free candies and chocolates from spectators. I stuck with my three honey stingers and a half of tangerine around 32km or mile 20. The last thing I thought my intestines would tolerate was chocolate. I was a little bit disappointed there were no rice balls. I had heard through the grapevine that rice balls were offered. Nope. Let me just squelch that rumor! 

That pretty much covers everything. As I mentioned, the experience was wonderful. So wonderful in fact, we both agreed that was our LAST full marathon. We don’t need to do another. Ever. Half marathons from here on out. As we were enjoying our Sushi celebration dinner I asked Dave if he would rather climb Mt. Fuji or run another marathon. His response, “I’ve done both in 6 months, I’m good.” Simultaneously, he said, he was ready to run Key West Half Marathon anytime!! I couldn’t agree more! 

Thank you for all of the FB cheers, messages, and blog comments. Your support and love was felt by us both halfway around the world. 

To finish lines! Kanpie! 

Keio Plaza Hotel

By

On February 24, 2017

In 2017, Japan, Shinjuku, Tokyo, Tokyo Marathon, Train

For marathon weekend, we are staying at a luxury hotel adjacent to the start of the marathon. The Keio Plaza Hotel. Let me start with, the hotel offers a 34th floor lounge with FREE beer, wine and snacks. The view from the 34th floor. 


Plus snacks. 


The room is BIG compared to our “business hotel” last weekend. Simultaneously, the price tripled. “Ahhh, it’s whatever.” We are here for Tokyo Marathon weekend. Bucket list. Once in a lifetime. I want to experience everything. 

This luxury hotel is very spacious. A couple pictures for perspective. 


One more for perspective. Those long American legs. From mid calf down, my legs are not supported by the couch. 


Besides space, free drinks, and snacks, the luxury hotel provides a step up to with respect to toiletries. 

You need it – they’ve provided. 


PS. If the hotel goes out of business after we leave… its Dwyer’s fault. He drank too much free beer… or maybe it was my bottle of wine or three. Kanpie! 

Pizzeria da Michele

By

On February 24, 2017

In Google Map, Japan, Pizza, Train

One of my top five favorite books is “Eat Pray Love” by Elizabeth Gilbert. If you are familiar with the book or movie, you might remember the part when she is in Italy and takes a trip to Naples. The Tandem Exchange twins she met in Rome, are from Naples and tell her she must go and eat pizza at Pizzeria da Michele.

Here is a quote from her description of the pizza from page 80 of the paperback edition.
“There’s not a menu. They have only two varieties of pizza here – regular and extra cheese. None of this new age southern California olives-and-sundried-tomato wannabe pizza twaddle. The dough, it takes me half my meal to figure out, tastes more like Indian nan than like any pizza dough I every tried. It’s soft and chewy and yielding, but incredibly thin. I always thought we only had two choices in our lives when it came to pizza crust – thin and crispy, or thick and doughy. How was I to have known there could be a crust in this world that was thin and doughy? Holy of holies! Thin, doughy, strong, gummy, yummy, chewy, salty pizza paradise. On top, there is a sweet tomato sauce that foams up all bubbly and creamy when it melts the fresh buffalo mozzarella, and the one sprig of basil in the middle of the whole deal somehow infuses the entire pizza with herbal radiance, much the same way one shimmering movie star in the middle of a party brings a contact high of glamour to everyone around her. It’s technically impossible to eat this thing, of course. You try to take a bite off your slice and the gummy crust folds, and the hot cheese runs away like a topsoil in a landslide, makes a mess of you and your surroundings, but just deal with it.”

I remember the first time I read that passage in 2008. Dave and I were driving home to Germantown, TN from our spring break trip to St. Pete’s Beach, FL. I was reading as he drove and read the passage aloud to him saying something like, listen to how good this pizza sounds. Much to my surprise and to my delight, there is also a Pizzeria da Michele in Tokyo. Both are owned by the same franchise. A friend told me about it and I marked it in Google Maps. When I was looking at Google Maps to see what was around our hotel, I saw the star I had placed last week. Seemed like the perfect Saturday pre-marathon carbo load lunch! We are the gray dot next to Shinjuku station and Pizzeria da Michele is the gold star by Ebisu station. Only 5 train stops away on the Yamanote line.

We arrived at 11:21 am. The restaurant opens at 11:30. We were first in line. By the time they opened the doors, there were 2 groups behind us. When we left an hour later, the restaurant was full and several groups were waiting for a table.

This menu was on the wall outside the restaurant.

We were seated at a table for two and we were given a menu. The menu included several appetizers and only two kinds of pizza. With or without cheese.

While we waited for our food, we watched them preparing pizzas. The pizza maker is behind the glass partition. He hand rolls the dough and adds the toppings. The pizza baker is standing in front of the oven. One person makes the pizza, one person bakes the pizza.

The oven was HUGE.

We started our meal with a green salad. The lettuce was so fresh and tender.

We finished our meal with the double mozzarella pizza.

It was just as delicious as Elizabeth Gilbert described. The first bite!

The pizza doesn’t come cut. On the table are knives and forks so you can cut your slice.

I found it easiest to fold and roll the slice and then bite. None the less, I had grease all over my hands and pants by the time I was finished.

It was an expensive pizza experience. The double mozzarella pizza costs ¥2000 about $18.50. Every bite was worth it and it was cheaper than flying to Italy!

I boldly stated to Dave, the pizza made it on my list of top 5 pizzas ever and  it was by far the best pizza we have had in Japan. I did make it clear it wasn’t better than Piece in Chicago. He said it was good and would go back. He thought the mozzarella and sauce were a little too liquidity. Maybe, but that crust!

———————————-

A short follow-up to yesterday’s post about our hotel. Here is a picture of the view from the room this morning. Mt. Fuji!

Also, I learned the hotel has Hello Kitty themed rooms. How did I miss this!?! I looked up the price of the room. A one night stay with breakfast included is ¥74,056 or about $660. Seems like I should be staying in one of those rooms for free considering my running outfit for tomorrow!!

Tokyo Marathon Expo

By

On February 23, 2017

In 2017, Google Map, Japan, Tokyo, Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo Marathon, Train

The Tokyo Marathon Expo is being held at Tokyo Big Sight. Tokyo Big Sight is a ginormous convention center located in the south east area of Tokyo. This is an area of Tokyo we have not had the opportunity to visit yet. Here was our route on the train. 


The fun part of the trip was going on the blue section or the Yurikamome Line. It goes over “Rainbow Bridge.” On the map, the green area is called “Aqua City” and we could see shopping and an amusement park. This will be an area worth exploring in the future. 


The expo is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The marathon is on Sunday. We decided to go to the expo on Thursday night because heard it only gets more crowded as the race day approaches. Plus, it isn’t really close to where we will be staying in Tokyo during marathon weekend. 

I’m truly glad we went when we did. I can’t imagine the crowds! 36,000 runners all have to pick up their number, wrist band, tshirts and timing chip. Yes, we have to wear a wrist band until we finish the marathon. It was put on by security and verified it matched my bib number. The band will also be screened at the start to allow me to enter and ensure I didn’t give away my number. 

Finding the expo once we were off the train was easy. There were workers pointing the way. 


Big Sight Tokyo was definitely big and a sight! There was a light up display with audio. 


First stop, number pick up. They had a special section for foreign runners. That’s us! 


Like I said, I’m so glad we came early. There were no lines! And my timing chip is good to go! 


How cute is this, they had a board with everyone’s name, organized by number. Dave found our names! 


From here, we entered the expo part of the expo and had plenty of photo opportunities, give aways and demonstrations. 


I forgot to mention they gave us a free beer, too! 


So much to see! 


It was undeniably the largest expo we have ever experienced. Two entire floors and a food court. 


The only disappointing part was the lack of Tokyo Marathon 2017 swag. There were a lot of tshirts and zip ups but, not things like pint glasses or beer coasters! 


The animated course map was one of my favorite pictures. It just makes me want to run… HAPPY!! 

Command Cave Tour

By

On February 21, 2017

In Gejigeji, Japan

One of spouse groups I joined since arriving last summer scheduled a visit to the COMDESRON FIFTEEN “Command Caves.” The command is literally inside caves that were used between 1938 and 1945. Here is a picture of the entrances to the command caves still in use.


The tour included going into the area that is used today as office spaces plus, a tour of the underground tunnel/cave network. The tour required hardhats and flashlights! Dina and I before we enter the underground caves! 


According to our tour guide, more than 260 caves in more than 20 separate tunnel/cave networks were constructed throughout the Yokosuka Naval Base. These caves were built by the Imperial Japanese Navy. There are approximately 27km (16.77 miles) of known and charted tunnels throughout the Navy base.


During the war, these tunnels were used to conduct secret operations and provide safety from air attacks. At the height of their use, the caves contained a 500-bed hospital, a large electric power facility, and a small submarine factory and warehouse. Also during the war, it is estimated that more than 800 Japanese military members lived in the caves. Can you image living here… 



Much of the cave’s history is classified and not shared with the public. During the Korean War, the caves were used as an emergency shelter and storage area for U.S. forces. During the Vietnam War, a portion of the cave was converted into the office spaces used today. The first picture was an altar. 


In 1992, U.S. Naval forces surveyed and mapped out the caves. This proved to be a very difficult and time-consuming process. Each department of the Japanese naval base were order to build their own caves. This created chaotic organization of the cave and tunnel system. As a result of this survey, it was determined the caves were unsafe and therefore sealed off with the exception of three main caves that were refurbished and currently in use.


At this point, the caves are unlit, crumbling, and a bit creepy. There were signs, rock falls, rusted equipment and decomposing wooden hospital beds.



And bugs. Big gross disgusting gejigeji. Awful. Just awful. Nightmares for days after seeing these in the dark tunnels. I made sure not to stay longer than required!


Speaking of creepy. Dina and I give our best effort for creepy/scary flashlight face. 

I’m happy to report we both made it out and lived to tell about. Yet another item I can cross off my list of “glad I did it and even more glad I never need to do again!”

Asakusa Seven Lucky Gods

By

On February 20, 2017

In 2017, Asakusa, Beer, Japan, Lucky, Seven Lucky Gods, Shrine, Sushi, Temple

After visiting the Tokyo Skytree, we went to the Sensō-ji Temple where we began the Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimage around Asakusa (pronounced A-sox-sa). The Sensō-ji Temple is one of the largest and most well temples in Tokyo. There were so many tourists!


A selfie at the start of our pilgrimage, the front gate of the temple. It was such a bright and sunny day!


After crossing through the front gate, there is a street with many stores selling every imaginable souvenir. Some of the stores weren’t open yet and so I was able to get a couple pictures of the art painted on the store doors.


The temple is very large and beautiful. 

With this Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimage, we were able to collect Temple stamps and small prayer cards that hang from a branch. At Sensō-ji Temple, I purchased the branch with a rooster card (2017 is the year of the rooster) and the card for Daikokuten, the God of commerce and prosperity.



Very close to Sensō-ji Temple was our next stop at the Asakusa Shrine. This shrine is dedicated to Ebisu, the God of wealth and prosperity.

Ebisu is the patron of fisherman and is shown holding a fish on the prayer card.

Our next stop was at the Honryuin Temple where Bisyamonten is honored. Bisyamonten is the God of War. He is pictured with an angry face to defeat evil!

The temple was unique because it had daikon that could be purchased as an offering. According to the temple brochure, “the daikon represents our minds trapped in deep ignorance, emanating poison of anger, but by offering a daikon to Kangi-Ten, that poison will be purged from our body and soul.”

Also, while we were waiting for my temple book to be stamped, one of the monks encouraged us to take dust from a beautiful gold urn and rub it on our palms and all over our bodies to cure any ailments. We rubbed it into our hands and down our legs hoping for a pain free marathon next weekend.

Cleansing water.

The fourth stop was the Imado Shrine or the Lucky Cat Shrine. This one has been on my list of must visit every since we went to the Lucky Cat Temple. The legend of the Imado Shrine was about an old woman who lived in Imado (Asakusa). She was forced to sell her cat due to extreme poverty. In her sadness, she dreamt of the cat telling her to make its image in clay. She created the clay cats and sold them. They were so popular she soon became very prosperous.


Here we collected the first of two prayer cards for Fukurokuji. Fukurokuji is the God of wisdom, luck, longevity, wealth, and happiness. The Imado Shrine features cats coupled together and visiting this temple is said to bring good fortune to your marriage. Also, if searching for a spouse, this is a good temple to visit and pray.


I purchased one of these cute of course a lucky cat prayer cards! Kawaii!


Look at these watering cans!


The next stop on our pilgrimage was the Ishihama Shrine. Here we collected the card for Jurojin, the God of longevity.


I loved the mixture of the stone and red wooden Tori gates.


After this stop is when my navigation went astray. I marked all of the Temples/Shrines on Google Maps the night before. Unfortunately, I tagged two of the wrong temples. Temples often have the same name. Like saying “First Baptist” or “United Methodist” – there can be more than one in an area. I should have looked at the map I was given at Sensō-ji Temple a little closer. I would have saved us about 1.5 hours of back-tracking.


The good part, we found a delicious conveyor sushi spot to eat lunch. All was not lost!

When we finally arrived back at the Fudodin Temple where we collected the prayer card for Hoteison, the God of good fortune.


If you notice Hotei on the map, you will see this temple was very close to where we just were when we went to the Ishihama Shrine. I added a 1.5-hour detour. Fortunately, we did ride the train and eat lunch for some part of that 1.5 hours.

The Fudodin Temple was small and colorful.


Now we were back on track with two stops remaining. As we were walking towards the Yasaki Inari Shrine, we came upon a vending machine selling beer. Yes! Another new experience! Would we be able to buy a beer? Yes, yes we were! And thanks to my fabulous brother, I had a koozie to keep it cool and my hand warm! Kanpie!


I’m still confused about how this is possibly legal. Regardless, we happily drank our beer and walked to next stop, the Otori Shrine also dedicated to Jurojin. Our second Jurojin – Jurojin is the God of longevity and pictured here with a deer, a symbol of longevity. 


I am not clear why there are two Jurojin on this pilgrimage. There are also two Fukurokuju – we skipped the last one. Here is the Otori Shrine. Small and bright. 


Continuing to the last stop, the Yoshiwara Shrine, we came across a small shrine around the corner from the main Shrine. Both the main and smaller Yoshiwara Shrine are dedicated to Benzaiten, the Goddess of water and music. Check out the artwork!


We continued on to the main Yoshiwara shrine. It was just as embellished!

The main altar. Gotta love the Sake barrels!


The prayer card of Benzaiten.


I took another up close picture of the hanging offering outside the entrance.


And one last selfie at the completion of our journey.


Our branch is now complete with our cute prayer cards for each lucky God.

This is my fourth Seven Lucky Gods. I enjoy them because they take you through parts of an area you wouldn’t normally visit. Plus, I love seeing the different temples/shrines. They are all so unique. Simultaneously, I love the scavenger hunt aspect. Yesterday was the perfect setting for wandering around Asakusa gather luck!

This Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimage was a bit longer than the others I have completed. According to Dave’s Fitbit, we walked 13.30 miles on Saturday. (This also included our trip to the Tokyo SkyTree.) None the less, it was a lot of walking and my side excursion only made it longer. By the time we finished, we were ready for a cold beer to celebrate our pilgrimage. Kanpie! 

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