Finding Beauty with Imperfection

Author: wabisabisole Page 29 of 54

Train Stamps

About six weeks ago, my friend Sonia told me about the Eki stamp. Eki means train in Japanese. An article she shared with me, discussed how each of the 9,161 trains stations in Japan each have their own unique stamp. The station stamps usually feature a picture of a local attraction. The stamps are free and fun way to document your travels around Japan. The article also pictured a Eki stamp book. Dina and I searched for about a month to find them and when we did, we bought one for us and Sonia. A cute and inexpensive (¥600) book to fill with stamps!


Since finding the books, we have been diligently working on collecting stamps. We collected several on May 17th when we went to visit the Kyu-Furukawa Gardens in Tokyo. The first stamp we found was at the Kami-Nakazato Station in Tokyo. It pictures the house at the Kyu-Furukawa Gardens.

The JR trains have a series of 77 stamps to collect. I took a picture of the sign of the different stamps to help us on our Eki stamping scavenger hunt!


As we traveled home, we stopped at several extra stations just to hunt for stamps. And I must stress – hunt. The stamps are not always easy to find. We have learned they are typically located near the “Central Exit” of the station. This is key because many of the larger stations have multiple exits.

Ueno Station alone had four stamps! And no, they were not all in the same location.

Here is a picture of the map in the station to help you find the other stamps.


We stopped in Tokyo, Kanda, and Shinagawa station. Each of these stamps were relatively easy to find now that we knew to look for the sign around the Central Exit.


Perhaps the most tricky was Yokohama Station. We walked around for several minutes before asking at the ticket center. We were directed to the train office. It was down a side hallway and around the corner. But, we found it!


The extra fun part about the stamps is that they are not just limited to trains stations. They are also available at many parks – Jogashima Island Park.


Dave and I were able to collect several during our trip last weekend to Hiroshima. The Shinkansen, Hiroshima Castle, and Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park.


We found them of course at the JR Station in Hiroshima.


And even at the Shukkei-en Garden, Tsuruhane Shrine, and Toshugu Shrine in Hiroshima.


This past week, Dina and I went over to Hase Station in Kamakura and discovered another series for the Endoshima Line.

I am planning on buying several the next time I find them at a store. I want you to have one when you visit. I think it will be a fun way for you to document where you/we went around Japan. Especially, if you are coming with a kid or two in tow.

Mangosteen

The purple mangosteen fruit grows on the tropical evergreen tree known as the mangosteen tree. The fruit is offered referred to as simply mangosteen. It is native to Indonesia and grows throughout Southeast Asia and Southwest India. Recently, it has been introduced to tropical areas like Puerto Rico and Florida.


The rind of the mangosteen turns a deep purple when the fruit is ripe. The rind softens as it ripens making it very easy to cut with a knife. 


After cutting, the white edible sections can easily be removed and eaten. The white fleshy sections have a similar texture to a peeled grape except maybe a little smoother. All of the sections have seeds. most of the seeds are small and can easily be chewed. One of the section has a larger seed like a small pit (the size of an almond) and shouldn’t be eaten.


The growing season for mangosteen is only about six to ten weeks, resulting in limited availability. Because of strict import regulations having to do with the Asian fruit fly, mangosteens weren’t available in the United States before 2007. They are still very difficult to find in the U.S. and when they are available, they are very expensive. More readily available are canned mangosteen or beverages containing mangosteen. One notable beverage that uses the mangosteen is Xango Juice. My mom has been drinking Xango Juice for years. For several years my mother-in-law was also drinking it. It claims to have numerous health benefits because it uses the rind which has many of the same antioxidants as blueberries. The actual edible part of the fruit is limited in nutritional value.

Living in Japan, I have the opportunity to enjoy mangosteen fruit. Ironically enough, I purchased the mangosteen fruit at Costco! I purchased a bag of eight mangosteens at Costco for less than ¥1000. This was my second experience tasting them. The first was during out Thailand trip. They were significantly cheaper in Thailand. I think I paid the equivalent of $5 for a package of eight. 

In Thailand, I purchased mangosteen that were already cut. I broke out our large chef knife anticipating difficulties cutting through the rind. Surprisingly, they were very easy to open. The rind was very soft and the knife cut through it very easily allowing me to split the fruit apart.


They mangosteen is tender and juicy. It has a sweet and slightly sour taste. They remind me a lot of a sweet tangerine mixed with a tart grape. They are a fun and relatively inexpensive treat. (less than $1.00 per fruit – cheaper than the $20 carton of California cherries at Costco!) Also, I feel special eating them because I know I wouldn’t be able to buy them in the U.S. They will not replace my love for freshly picked strawberries, however, they are a special delicacy I can enjoy while I am living in Japan!

Other Hiroshima Highlights

The city of Hiroshima has several other notable attractions. One is the Hiroshima Castle. It was a short walk from our hotel and the perfect way to stretch our legs after our ride on the Shinkansen. The original castle was destroyed in the bombing and reconstructed. 


The views of the city from the top level of the castle were lovely and so was the breeze! 


A lovely tucked away gem was the Shukkei-en Garden. We arrived Tuesday morning when it opened. We essentially had the place to ourselves. It was quiet and serene. Several azaleas were blooming and the hydrangeas were just beginning to bloom. 


The focal point of the garden was a large pond with several bridges to cross as you strolled through the garden. 


The pond also provided the perfect distraction for Dave. For ¥100 ($1.00), I purchased him a bag of food to feed the numerous turtles and carp. As we walked around, I snapped pictures and he feed the animals. At one spot he had 9 turtles – 3 were to the left of this group.  


There was a lot of thought put into the development of this garden. The sign explains. 


After the park, I had two Shrines I wanted to visit before we had lunch. One was near the castle. (I left my stamp book in the hotel the first day!) The Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine was very large and lovely. We enjoyed making wishes by the carp statues and mustang. 


We continued our walk to the Hiroshima Toshogu Shrine. This ended up being the fourth Shrine of the day. Dave counted the steps – 53 to the top! 


Along our walk to the Hiroshima Shrine, I told Dave we might find a bonus Shrine. We found two! The first was the Nigitsu Shrine. 


And the second was the Tsuruhane Shrine. 


All of the Shrines were destroyed by the atomic bomb. They were rebuilt and along with 12 others are part of the historical walking tour of Hiroshima. At the Tsuruhane Shrine, I was given this map! 


Perhaps, if we had more time and we weren’t already sweaty spaghetti, we would have walked the entire route. Maybe next time when you visit! We could almost fill your whole temple book! 

Itsukushima Shrine

The first part of our tour on Monday morning was a visit to Miyajima Island and the Itsukushima Shrine. The Torii gate of this shrine is one of the most iconic scenes of Japan. Hiroshima Bay has significant tidal changes. We were able to visit the shrine during high tide. This gives the visitor the impression the Torii is floating. During low tide, visitors are able to walk out to the Torii. The views of the Torii as we approached the shrine were majestic. 


One selfie to prove we were here! Pardon my fly away ferry hair! 


Our tour guide shared interesting details about the Shrine. Here is a summary from my notes. 

The Shrine is dedicated to the Shinto Gods of the seas and storms. The island was considered sacred and commoners were not allowed to visit the island. The Shrine was built over the water to allow visitors to make their pilgrimage without actually stepping on the island. 


The red entrance Torii gate, was built over the water for the same reason. Commoners were expected to steer their boats through the torii before approaching the shrine.


Interestingly, in an effort to retain the purity of the Shrine, neither deaths nor births are permitted near the shrine. In fact, terminally ill residents and pregnant residents of the island are expected to return to the mainland to pass away or deliver their child. Simultaneously, burials are prohibited on the island. 

The Itsukushima Shrine was beautiful and presented the opportunity for many incredible pictures. 


After our visit to the Itsukushima Shrine, we walked around the main shopping street. We enjoyed a famous lunch of okonomiyaki. Hmmmm. There was so much going on with this special dish. It was a flour tortilla loaded with everything imaginable. The first picture illustrates the construction of the ingredients. It goes in my list of “I can say I ate it and I don’t need to eat it again.” Honestly, it was the sauce. Too much. It was like a thick and too sweet teriyaki. 


Here is a picture of the history behind the dish. 


The final highlight of Miyajima Island was the number of deer. Yes, deer. Everywhere. And they were looking for food! 

Camped out in front of a restaurant! 


This picture was my favorite! The wild deer was stoically posed by the sign! Ha! 


Miyajima Island was a highlight of the weekend. If we have time when you visit to make the trip, we should spend the night on the island and perhaps do some hiking. I know we will both enjoy our time on the island! 

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

On Memorial Day, Dave and I had the opportunity to visit Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum. It was intense and moving to view the destruction and hopes for peace. 

Before entering the museum, we walked around the garden. There were many different monuments and statues dedicated to the victims and survivors. Perhaps the most iconic is the Atomic Bomb Dome. Here are a few pictures. The gravity of the destruction was intense. This specific spot was selected as the target because the bridge (we are standing on the bridge when I took this picture) and the river created a “T” making it easily identifiable from the air. The building has been preserved in its destroyed state as a reminder of the event and as a sign of hope for peace. 


Another significant monument is the eternal flame for peace. The flame burns for peace on Earth. 


I reflected on former President Obama’s speech from last year. I included a segment for you. I found it very poignant. He gave his speech standing in front of this monument. The eternal flame for peace and Atomic Bomb Dome are in the background. 


“Why do we come to this place, to Hiroshima? We come to ponder a terrible force unleashed in a not-so-distant past. We come to mourn the dead, including over 100,000 Japanese men, women and children, thousands of Koreans, a dozen Americans held prisoner.

Every great religion promises a pathway to love and peace and righteousness, and yet no religion has been spared from believers who have claimed their faith as a license to kill.

Science allows us to communicate across the seas and fly above the clouds, to cure disease and understand the cosmos, but those same discoveries can be turned into ever more efficient killing machines.

That is why we come to this place. We stand here in the middle of this city and force ourselves to imagine the moment the bomb fell. We force ourselves to feel the dread of children confused by what they see. We listen to a silent cry. We remember all the innocents killed across the arc of that terrible war and the wars that came before and the wars that would follow.

And since that fateful day, we have made choices that give us hope. The United States and Japan have forged not only an alliance but a friendship that has won far more for our people than we could ever claim through war.” 

-Barrack Obama May 27th, 2016

Another highlight within the park is the Children’s Peace Monument. Here is the story of the monument and the 1,000 cranes. 


The monument and the cranes. It is difficult to see because of the lighting, the Peace bell is hanging within the statue. 

Visiting the park was a very intense experience. The museum amplifies the intensity. The exhibits focus on the impact of the bombs on the victims. I didn’t take many pictures because I felt the pictures didn’t tell the story like the exhibits. I liked the way our tour guide summed up the experience of our visit. She encouraged us to tell people about our visit and to hope for peace. Also, we must hope there is never another Hiroshima. Spending time this Memorial Day in Hiroshima will be an experience I always treasure and will continue to inspire me to spread and bring peace. 

One Bite

Our first night in Hiroshima, Dave found us an amazing sushi restaurant called Sushitei Hikarimachi. The well-renowned Sushi chef was truly a culinary expert. We sat at the bar and allowed him to select the Sushi he would make and serve us. It was an fun and adventurous sushi dining experience. I was pushed out of my sushi comfort zone twice. 

Each piece was served on the leaf. We were directed to use our hands, not chopsticks. The chef told us to use our fingers fingers and take only one bite. We were not allowed to dip in soy sauce either. Some of the bites were rather large! Fortunately, we had cold beer in standby. 


First piece, white fish. Very good. It was lightly seared and brushed with a teriyaki sauce. 


Second piece. Also very good. It was salmon wrapped around rice and cream cheese. 

Seared tuna. Again, delicious. 

And then I was tested. Raw shrimp. Lightly seared. It was surprisingly good. Once I let go that it was raw shrimp. 


After that, the mackerel was a breeze. 

The avocado with fish roe was one of my favorites. 

And the tuna flower. Definitely my favorite. 


I was completely out of my comfort zone when he served us the sea urchin. Oh, my. Awful. My palette is not sophisticated enough to enjoy the salty deep sea taste. More for you. 

We also enjoyed tempura vegetables. Sweet potato, asparagus, and lotus root. Very delicious. 

Shinkansen 

I must confess. I was completely giddy anticipating our Shinkansen trip. Riding the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) has been at the top of my Japan Bucket List. Our trip to Hiroshima was the perfect opportunity. 

We boarded the Shinkansen in Shinagawa. Here is the route to Hiroshima. 

Considering this is the Shinagawa Shinkansen station, it seemed empty! Our train was on track 23 – car 6. 


I took a video and several pictures while waiting for our train at 10:17am. I was only reprimanded once for not standing behind the yellow line! Oops! 

The video is of the train leaving. I thought it would show the speed better than the train arriving. 

​This is our train arriving. I used the burst setting on my phone. It was still blurry! 


Once on the train, I unpacked our snacks! We packed the needed provisions. A homemade rice ball, veggie sticks, and several chūhai. We settled in nicely for our almost 4-hour journey. 

Let me tell you a little bit more about the Shinkansen. My source was Wikipedia and the JR Train website. I summarized and made it reader friendly. 

Speed – the maximum is 200 mph. The average speed is between 150-185 mph. 

The Route – the Shinkansen tracks are their own separate system. They do not cross roads or go around obstacles. They go through or over any obstacle. Most of the time the tracks are slightly elevated above surrounding landscape. Curves are kept to a minimum. Because as we all know, the fastest way from point A to Point B is a straight line. 

The Tracks – the tracks are Standard Gauge (wider tracks – lower center of gravity) vice Narrow Gauge. Being an Austin, I’m not embarrassed to admit I know the difference. Also, the actual rails of the tracks are longer. This reduces the number of welds required and the effects of thermal expansion within the rails and therefore provides a smoother ride. 

The Trains – the trains are lighter and can accelerate or decelerate quickly. This reduces the amount of damage to the tracks. Also, the cars are air-sealed to ensure stable air pressure when entering tunnels at high speed.

Side note: I felt the speed the most when going through the tunnels. The combination of the speed and confinement created excessive pressure on my ears.

Environmental Impact – the average ride (per passenger) on the Shinkansen produces 16% of the CO2 produced by the same trip made by a vehicle. Considering the Shinkansen has 342 daily departures with 1,323 seats per train, that’s a much smaller carbon footprint than driving. 

Safety – Very. No fatalities from derailments or collisions. Deaths have occurred from people rushing the train and suicides.  

Taking the Shinkansen is a fantastic alternative to driving and much less hassle than flying. We were able to book a train, hotel, and tour package at a very reasonable price. I hope when you visit, we have the opportunity to visit another part of Japan via the Shinkansen. You won’t be disappointed!! 

Familiarity 

I realized something while Dave and I were running this morning. Our route has become so familiar I am able to anticipate scents and odors along our way. 

It is similar to America when you go out for a walk or run and you smell someone doing laundry. It’s like that except we smell things like someone’s shower soap when running down this alley. 


Or that we have learned to breathe out when passing the house with the blue roof on the left because it smells like liver and cigarettes. 


Our two favorites right now are the roses and honeysuckle. 


We also know when to expect trash day. Today was a cardboard recycling day. I find the meticulous care with which the Japanese bundle their garbage intriguing. Simultaneously, the potted flowers beautify the neat bundles. 


We also have our “regulars” who we typically see most mornings. They are always quick to exchange an “ohayōgozaimasu” or sometimes an actual “good morning”. 

It feels good to smell familiar scents, see familiar faces, and exchange morning pleasantries. It helps us to feel connected. 

Thank you for that. Subject change. 

I need a favor from my flower loving friends. Please help me to identify this plant. I took several pictures. It looks like a impatient but, it grows on a trunk. I have seen it growing in several places and can’t identify it. Any assistance would be appreciated! Do you know? 


One more thing before you go- tomorrow, Sunday, Dave and I are taking the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima. I’m so excited! We have 2 days to explore Hiroshima and Miyajima Island. I look forward to sharing it all with you! 

Where are you from? 

Walking around Kamakura today we encountered numerous groups of school children. We had two groups stop to ask us if they could ask us questions. In excellent English, they told us their names. Dina and I told them our names. We exchanged nice to meet you! The students then asked where we were from. They recorded our answers. The final question was to have a picture taken together. Of course! 


We continued our journey around Kamakura. I had Genjiyama Park and Kewaizaka Cutting Road on my list of things to see in Kamakura. Turns out, we have already been to both places! Haha

A couple pictures of the park – where you can see Mt. Fuji on a clear day! 

And the Kewaizaka Cutting Road with numerous school kids. 


The highlight and something new was the statue of Minamoto Yoritomo. Minamoto Yoritomo was the founder and the first shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate of Japan. He ruled from 1192 until 1199. 


Lastly, have I mentioned the humidity lately? Today was off the charts muggy. It was fun to think of ways to describe the humidity. Here are a few Dave and I came up with running this morning. 

1. Sweaty Spaghetti 

2. Muggy-saurus Rex

3. Muggy McMug Face

4. Sweaty McSweat Face 

5. Sweat Fest 2017 

6. Sweat-asaurus Rex

If you’re thinking about a summer visit, prepare for humidity like no where else. It’s only May 25th and I needed three showers today! 

Tide Pools 

The best way I could think to celebrate the end of my Tuesday night class was to head to the beach! I drove Dina and Katie to Jogashima Island. Sonia and I went to Jogashima Island a few weeks ago. When I was telling Katie about our experience, I realized that Sonia and I didn’t actually explore Jogashima Park. Looking at the photo I took of Goggle Maps, we explored Joga Island, not Jogashima Park, the area in green.


It took us about 45 minutes to drive down to the island from Ikego. Parking was very easy because it was a week day. We parked and then set off to explore! The park had nicely paved trails with steps and lined with hydrangeas. They are only starting to bloom. If I have time, I’ll need to return next month!


Beyond the trail, we found the lighthouse, waves, and tide pools. It was beautiful. The lighthouse was very futuristic looking.


I could have watched this wave pool for hours.


Here is a video. I was mesmerized.


The view of the tide pool to the left.


Dina took us over to a small little tide pool she found. There were so many hermit crabs who appeared to be working so hard!



We continued to walk along the coast. Enjoying the sea breeze and brine smell in the air.


We then walked over to where Sonia and I discovered the rock bridge. Just as lovely as it was in April.


And many more tide pools.


It was fun to share a beautiful and remote place with my local friends. I hope we have time to take the journey when you visit. Going to Jogashima Island is a nice counter balance to the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. And you know what they say, on a clear day, you can see Mt. Fuji.

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