Wabi-Sabi Sole

Finding Beauty with Imperfection

Itsukushima Shrine

By

On May 29, 2017

In 2017, Hiroshima, Japan, Miyajima Island, Shrine

The first part of our tour on Monday morning was a visit to Miyajima Island and the Itsukushima Shrine. The Torii gate of this shrine is one of the most iconic scenes of Japan. Hiroshima Bay has significant tidal changes. We were able to visit the shrine during high tide. This gives the visitor the impression the Torii is floating. During low tide, visitors are able to walk out to the Torii. The views of the Torii as we approached the shrine were majestic. 


One selfie to prove we were here! Pardon my fly away ferry hair! 


Our tour guide shared interesting details about the Shrine. Here is a summary from my notes. 

The Shrine is dedicated to the Shinto Gods of the seas and storms. The island was considered sacred and commoners were not allowed to visit the island. The Shrine was built over the water to allow visitors to make their pilgrimage without actually stepping on the island. 


The red entrance Torii gate, was built over the water for the same reason. Commoners were expected to steer their boats through the torii before approaching the shrine.


Interestingly, in an effort to retain the purity of the Shrine, neither deaths nor births are permitted near the shrine. In fact, terminally ill residents and pregnant residents of the island are expected to return to the mainland to pass away or deliver their child. Simultaneously, burials are prohibited on the island. 

The Itsukushima Shrine was beautiful and presented the opportunity for many incredible pictures. 


After our visit to the Itsukushima Shrine, we walked around the main shopping street. We enjoyed a famous lunch of okonomiyaki. Hmmmm. There was so much going on with this special dish. It was a flour tortilla loaded with everything imaginable. The first picture illustrates the construction of the ingredients. It goes in my list of “I can say I ate it and I don’t need to eat it again.” Honestly, it was the sauce. Too much. It was like a thick and too sweet teriyaki. 


Here is a picture of the history behind the dish. 


The final highlight of Miyajima Island was the number of deer. Yes, deer. Everywhere. And they were looking for food! 

Camped out in front of a restaurant! 


This picture was my favorite! The wild deer was stoically posed by the sign! Ha! 


Miyajima Island was a highlight of the weekend. If we have time when you visit to make the trip, we should spend the night on the island and perhaps do some hiking. I know we will both enjoy our time on the island! 

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

By

On May 29, 2017

In Hiroshima, Japan

On Memorial Day, Dave and I had the opportunity to visit Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum. It was intense and moving to view the destruction and hopes for peace. 

Before entering the museum, we walked around the garden. There were many different monuments and statues dedicated to the victims and survivors. Perhaps the most iconic is the Atomic Bomb Dome. Here are a few pictures. The gravity of the destruction was intense. This specific spot was selected as the target because the bridge (we are standing on the bridge when I took this picture) and the river created a “T” making it easily identifiable from the air. The building has been preserved in its destroyed state as a reminder of the event and as a sign of hope for peace. 


Another significant monument is the eternal flame for peace. The flame burns for peace on Earth. 


I reflected on former President Obama’s speech from last year. I included a segment for you. I found it very poignant. He gave his speech standing in front of this monument. The eternal flame for peace and Atomic Bomb Dome are in the background. 


“Why do we come to this place, to Hiroshima? We come to ponder a terrible force unleashed in a not-so-distant past. We come to mourn the dead, including over 100,000 Japanese men, women and children, thousands of Koreans, a dozen Americans held prisoner.

Every great religion promises a pathway to love and peace and righteousness, and yet no religion has been spared from believers who have claimed their faith as a license to kill.

Science allows us to communicate across the seas and fly above the clouds, to cure disease and understand the cosmos, but those same discoveries can be turned into ever more efficient killing machines.

That is why we come to this place. We stand here in the middle of this city and force ourselves to imagine the moment the bomb fell. We force ourselves to feel the dread of children confused by what they see. We listen to a silent cry. We remember all the innocents killed across the arc of that terrible war and the wars that came before and the wars that would follow.

And since that fateful day, we have made choices that give us hope. The United States and Japan have forged not only an alliance but a friendship that has won far more for our people than we could ever claim through war.” 

-Barrack Obama May 27th, 2016

Another highlight within the park is the Children’s Peace Monument. Here is the story of the monument and the 1,000 cranes. 


The monument and the cranes. It is difficult to see because of the lighting, the Peace bell is hanging within the statue. 

Visiting the park was a very intense experience. The museum amplifies the intensity. The exhibits focus on the impact of the bombs on the victims. I didn’t take many pictures because I felt the pictures didn’t tell the story like the exhibits. I liked the way our tour guide summed up the experience of our visit. She encouraged us to tell people about our visit and to hope for peace. Also, we must hope there is never another Hiroshima. Spending time this Memorial Day in Hiroshima will be an experience I always treasure and will continue to inspire me to spread and bring peace. 

One Bite

By

On May 28, 2017

In Hiroshima, Japan, Sushi

Our first night in Hiroshima, Dave found us an amazing sushi restaurant called Sushitei Hikarimachi. The well-renowned Sushi chef was truly a culinary expert. We sat at the bar and allowed him to select the Sushi he would make and serve us. It was an fun and adventurous sushi dining experience. I was pushed out of my sushi comfort zone twice. 

Each piece was served on the leaf. We were directed to use our hands, not chopsticks. The chef told us to use our fingers fingers and take only one bite. We were not allowed to dip in soy sauce either. Some of the bites were rather large! Fortunately, we had cold beer in standby. 


First piece, white fish. Very good. It was lightly seared and brushed with a teriyaki sauce. 


Second piece. Also very good. It was salmon wrapped around rice and cream cheese. 

Seared tuna. Again, delicious. 

And then I was tested. Raw shrimp. Lightly seared. It was surprisingly good. Once I let go that it was raw shrimp. 


After that, the mackerel was a breeze. 

The avocado with fish roe was one of my favorites. 

And the tuna flower. Definitely my favorite. 


I was completely out of my comfort zone when he served us the sea urchin. Oh, my. Awful. My palette is not sophisticated enough to enjoy the salty deep sea taste. More for you. 

We also enjoyed tempura vegetables. Sweet potato, asparagus, and lotus root. Very delicious. 

Shinkansen 

By

On May 28, 2017

In Hiroshima, Japan, Shinagawa, Shinkansen, Sogo Yokohama, Train, Travel

I must confess. I was completely giddy anticipating our Shinkansen trip. Riding the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) has been at the top of my Japan Bucket List. Our trip to Hiroshima was the perfect opportunity. 

We boarded the Shinkansen in Shinagawa. Here is the route to Hiroshima. 

Considering this is the Shinagawa Shinkansen station, it seemed empty! Our train was on track 23 – car 6. 


I took a video and several pictures while waiting for our train at 10:17am. I was only reprimanded once for not standing behind the yellow line! Oops! 
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The video is of the train leaving. I thought it would show the speed better than the train arriving. 

​This is our train arriving. I used the burst setting on my phone. It was still blurry! 


Once on the train, I unpacked our snacks! We packed the needed provisions. A homemade rice ball, veggie sticks, and several chūhai. We settled in nicely for our almost 4-hour journey. 

Let me tell you a little bit more about the Shinkansen. My source was Wikipedia and the JR Train website. I summarized and made it reader friendly. 

Speed – the maximum is 200 mph. The average speed is between 150-185 mph. 

The Route – the Shinkansen tracks are their own separate system. They do not cross roads or go around obstacles. They go through or over any obstacle. Most of the time the tracks are slightly elevated above surrounding landscape. Curves are kept to a minimum. Because as we all know, the fastest way from point A to Point B is a straight line. 

The Tracks – the tracks are Standard Gauge (wider tracks – lower center of gravity) vice Narrow Gauge. Being an Austin, I’m not embarrassed to admit I know the difference. Also, the actual rails of the tracks are longer. This reduces the number of welds required and the effects of thermal expansion within the rails and therefore provides a smoother ride. 

The Trains – the trains are lighter and can accelerate or decelerate quickly. This reduces the amount of damage to the tracks. Also, the cars are air-sealed to ensure stable air pressure when entering tunnels at high speed.

Side note: I felt the speed the most when going through the tunnels. The combination of the speed and confinement created excessive pressure on my ears.

Environmental Impact – the average ride (per passenger) on the Shinkansen produces 16% of the CO2 produced by the same trip made by a vehicle. Considering the Shinkansen has 342 daily departures with 1,323 seats per train, that’s a much smaller carbon footprint than driving. 

Safety – Very. No fatalities from derailments or collisions. Deaths have occurred from people rushing the train and suicides.  

Taking the Shinkansen is a fantastic alternative to driving and much less hassle than flying. We were able to book a train, hotel, and tour package at a very reasonable price. I hope when you visit, we have the opportunity to visit another part of Japan via the Shinkansen. You won’t be disappointed!! 

Familiarity 

By

On May 27, 2017

In Honeysuckle, Japan, Roses, Running

I realized something while Dave and I were running this morning. Our route has become so familiar I am able to anticipate scents and odors along our way. 

It is similar to America when you go out for a walk or run and you smell someone doing laundry. It’s like that except we smell things like someone’s shower soap when running down this alley. 


Or that we have learned to breathe out when passing the house with the blue roof on the left because it smells like liver and cigarettes. 


Our two favorites right now are the roses and honeysuckle. 


We also know when to expect trash day. Today was a cardboard recycling day. I find the meticulous care with which the Japanese bundle their garbage intriguing. Simultaneously, the potted flowers beautify the neat bundles. 


We also have our “regulars” who we typically see most mornings. They are always quick to exchange an “ohayōgozaimasu” or sometimes an actual “good morning”. 

It feels good to smell familiar scents, see familiar faces, and exchange morning pleasantries. It helps us to feel connected. 

Thank you for that. Subject change. 

I need a favor from my flower loving friends. Please help me to identify this plant. I took several pictures. It looks like a impatient but, it grows on a trunk. I have seen it growing in several places and can’t identify it. Any assistance would be appreciated! Do you know? 


One more thing before you go- tomorrow, Sunday, Dave and I are taking the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima. I’m so excited! We have 2 days to explore Hiroshima and Miyajima Island. I look forward to sharing it all with you! 

Where are you from? 

By

On May 25, 2017

In Japan, Kamakura

Walking around Kamakura today we encountered numerous groups of school children. We had two groups stop to ask us if they could ask us questions. In excellent English, they told us their names. Dina and I told them our names. We exchanged nice to meet you! The students then asked where we were from. They recorded our answers. The final question was to have a picture taken together. Of course! 


We continued our journey around Kamakura. I had Genjiyama Park and Kewaizaka Cutting Road on my list of things to see in Kamakura. Turns out, we have already been to both places! Haha

A couple pictures of the park – where you can see Mt. Fuji on a clear day! 

And the Kewaizaka Cutting Road with numerous school kids. 


The highlight and something new was the statue of Minamoto Yoritomo. Minamoto Yoritomo was the founder and the first shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate of Japan. He ruled from 1192 until 1199. 


Lastly, have I mentioned the humidity lately? Today was off the charts muggy. It was fun to think of ways to describe the humidity. Here are a few Dave and I came up with running this morning. 

1. Sweaty Spaghetti 

2. Muggy-saurus Rex

3. Muggy McMug Face

4. Sweaty McSweat Face 

5. Sweat Fest 2017 

6. Sweat-asaurus Rex

If you’re thinking about a summer visit, prepare for humidity like no where else. It’s only May 25th and I needed three showers today! 

Tide Pools 

By

On May 24, 2017

In Japan, Jogashima Park, Tide Pools

The best way I could think to celebrate the end of my Tuesday night class was to head to the beach! I drove Dina and Katie to Jogashima Island. Sonia and I went to Jogashima Island a few weeks ago. When I was telling Katie about our experience, I realized that Sonia and I didn’t actually explore Jogashima Park. Looking at the photo I took of Goggle Maps, we explored Joga Island, not Jogashima Park, the area in green.


It took us about 45 minutes to drive down to the island from Ikego. Parking was very easy because it was a week day. We parked and then set off to explore! The park had nicely paved trails with steps and lined with hydrangeas. They are only starting to bloom. If I have time, I’ll need to return next month!


Beyond the trail, we found the lighthouse, waves, and tide pools. It was beautiful. The lighthouse was very futuristic looking.


I could have watched this wave pool for hours.


Here is a video. I was mesmerized.

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The view of the tide pool to the left.


Dina took us over to a small little tide pool she found. There were so many hermit crabs who appeared to be working so hard!


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We continued to walk along the coast. Enjoying the sea breeze and brine smell in the air.


We then walked over to where Sonia and I discovered the rock bridge. Just as lovely as it was in April.


And many more tide pools.


It was fun to share a beautiful and remote place with my local friends. I hope we have time to take the journey when you visit. Going to Jogashima Island is a nice counter balance to the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. And you know what they say, on a clear day, you can see Mt. Fuji.

Foam or Fōmu

By

On May 23, 2017

In Japan, Tea Box, Yokosuka

The best news of today, I had my last Tuesday night English class. It feels like summer break! Although, I will continue to see my grandmothers on Fridays. None the less, I traded in my teacher cardie for a swimsuit and flip flops!

The funny story of today was attempting to buy the supplies to make another tea box. Dina and I were instructed by Atsuko to go to the fabric store in Yokosuka vice Kamakura. So, we did. We both purchased fabric and batting. I also purchased enough batting to make a quilt or two in the near future.

The fabric purchase was pretty easy compared to purchasing the foam to cover the top. Dina and I went to Homes to purchase the foam padding. We walked around searching for a 50cm piece of foam padding without success. Dina was bold and asked for assistance. She even showed a picture to the store clerk. There was a customer standing nearby who overheard and asked us in English if she could help. She communicated with the store clerk and referred to foam as “fōmu” (pronounced fo-moo).  Seriously!?! Anyways, they eventually took us back to a piece of furniture foam that was a 40cm square. Nope, not it. Dina and I eventually gave up and left.

Meanwhile, during this ordeal, Dina messaged Atsuko and informed her we couldn’t find the foam. Atsuko said she would call the store. And she did. After Dina dropped me off for my Tuesday class, she realized she missed a call from Atsuko. The message Atsuko left informed Dina she called Homes and spoke with Mrs. Kobayashi. Atsuko told Dina to ask for Mrs. Kobayashi for assistance. Dina returned to the store and went to the customer service desk. She asked for Mrs. Kobayashi. Eventually, she was led back to the foam by a worker. One worker turned into six. All to cut foam. The same foam they couldn’t find an hour earlier.


At some point, Dina heard them mention Atsuko. She said, “hai, Atsuko.” At which point everyone seemed to be even more impressed and attentive to Dina’s needs. Even funnier, Dina doesn’t think she ever actually met Mrs Kobayashi.

What an adventure. All for three bags of fabric, batting, and foam.


I still need to get a tea box before next Wednesday. Dina’s tea box is under the bags. Here’s hoping the tea box purchase is a bit smoother.

Yokohama Garden Necklace 

By

On May 22, 2017

In 2017, Flowers, Garden Necklace, Japan, Yamashita Park, Yokohama

A bright sunny Monday is the perfect time to visit the Yokohama Garden Necklace. 


The Yokohama Garden Necklace goes from the end of March until the beginning of June. It is designed to highlight the green initiatives the city of Yokohama has taken. The main gardens and parks of Yokohama are connected (like a necklace) around the city by filling the urban spaces with strategically placed flowers and greenery. The mascot of the event is the cute bear with a flower hat. Kawaii! 


Today, I went to visit Yamashita Park. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen such an extensive flower collection. The park is along the waterfront of Yokohama Port. The ships provided a nice background. 


And so did the city skyline. 


In the middle of the park, was a large fountain with a statue of The Guardian of Water. 


Interestingly, the Guardian of Water statue was a gift to the people of Yokohama from the people of San Diego. It was presented in 1960. A fitting gift from one coastal town to another! 


As I mentioned, the flowers were spectacular. Roses, foxglove, impatients, iris, lilies, snapdragons, asters, and many others! 


Maybe a few close up pictures. 


Yamashita Park was a small gem bursting with flowers. If you plan a visit next spring, I will be sure to add it to Julia’s tour when we visit Yokohama. 

Shop Like a Local

By

On May 21, 2017

In Blue Moon, Japan, Zushi

Dave and I went into Zushi for lunch and to pick up a couple things.


We went to one of our favorite little restaurants, Blue Moon. They have a very limited lunch menu which is always served with fantastic service. Today, I opted for the Blue Moon Noodle dish. It was a combination of Pho and Green Curry. It was good but didn’t make my top 5 lunch dishes.


After lunch, we walked through a small festival being held at a temple across the street.


And then we went to the local grocery store to pick up tuna to make poke tuna rice bowls for dinner. Dinner was delicious! I could eat a rice bowl every meal. The shrimp and fresh edamame were a bonus. 


I also needed to get Japanese toilet paper. The toilet paper holders in the bathrooms are too long for American toilet paper. When the American toilet paper roll is about halfway used, it will slip out and proceed to roll across the floor. You can imagine how annoying that is when your trying to use the restroom. Japanese toilet paper is designed to fit perfectly. It is also sold in a convenient plastic carrying package.


It is very common to see the Japanese walking home from the market with their large package of toilet paper. I felt like a local walking home this afternoon carrying my TP in one hand and sushi in the other.


The final purchase we made at the grocery store was raw / fresh edamame. The produce in Japan is seasonal. When we first arrive last August, I was able to find fresh edamame everywhere. By early Septemeber, I couldn’t find it anywhere. I realized after a few months and looking everywhere, I would have to wait until it was in season again. I mentioned to Dave recently, that we should be seeing it in the stores soon because it was in season when we arrived. Today, I found my first edamame of 2017! Yay! My favorite!

I think carrying your package of toilet paper through the streets needs to be a qualifier to being able to say “I lived in Japan”. Because you truly haven’t lived in Japan until you carried your TP, sushi (with a cute ice pack because it is hot out), and edamame all the way home… When you visit, if you want the true local experience, I will help you buy and carry your TP all the way home!

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