Wabi-Sabi Sole

Finding Beauty with Imperfection

Author: wabisabisole Page 39 of 54

Six Months

By

On February 1, 2017

In Japan, Navy, Nissan Cube

I can’t believe it. February 1st marks our 6th month of living in Japan. I can’t tell if it feels like I’ve lived here for 6 days, 6 months, or 6 years. We have experienced many highs and lows, the good and bad, the beautiful and ugly. We have climbed and I have fallen. Haha 

I’m sure your thinking we must have enjoyed a huge celebration. Maybe? A “milestone” anyways. I bought new shoes. For the Hooptie. That’s right. New tires for our sweet ride. 


My girl appreciates a nice pair of shoes. $316 for tires and labor. Girlfriend only cost us $300. Pretty funny. Check out these sweet pieces of rubber. Nice tread. 


On a serious note, we miss you all. Everyday. 

We have enjoyed the opportunities we have had over the past six months and realize they come with sacrifices. Being away is obviously the biggest. 

You are always in our thoughts and heart. We love hearing from you and cherish your messages and phone calls. 

We love you all. To six months! Kanpie! 

Shinjuku Seven Lucky Gods

By

On January 31, 2017

In 2017, Cherry Blossoms, Customs, English, Google Map, Japan, Seven Lucky Gods, Shinjuku, Shrine, Temple, Tokyo, Train

The “Shichifukujin” or Seven Lucky Gods pilgrimages are quickly becoming one of my favorite adventures. The pilgrimage reminds me of a modern day urban scavenger hunt. You must find the Seven Temples/Shrines, stamp your temple book and retrieve your cute figurine. All of this while using Google Maps, a map found on the Internet and if you’re lucky, a little bit of broken English from a monk. Or as in case today, a monk who spoke no English but was great with giving directions in Japanese while pointing at a map. I’ll come back to that story in a little bit.

This is my third Seven Lucky Gods adventure. First in Meguro and then in Zushi. Each time, I receive information about the God’s meaning. I will share what information I was given today, which may vary a little bit from what I have told you previously.

Dina and I set out this morning to Shinjuku. Shinjuku is located on the northwest side of Tokyo. It was a little over an hour away. Here was our route.


Yesterday, I marked all of the temple/shrine locations with a star so it would be easier to navigate between them. We started at the bottom and walked toward the center cluster. Then walked to the temple on the far left. Then we took the train to the two temples on the far right.


At our first temple, Taiso-ji, we collected Hotei and purchased the boat the Gods would rest upon. Hotei: God of family, peace and protection from illness and disaster.


From here we walked towards the Hozen-ji Temple. However, we were sidetracked along the way by an amazing bakery.


I enjoyed a delicious chocolate croissant. I felt super lucky it was chocolate and not red bean paste!

Around the corner was the temple.


Here we collected Jurojin. Jurojin: God of long life and protection from illness.


Our third stop was at the Itsukushima-Jinja Shrine. It was literally in the corner of an intersection. There was a Koi Pond, Tori Gate and Shrine. Yet, no person was present.


We decided to continue our journey to the fourth temple, Eifuku-ji Temple. We thought perhaps we could ask at the fourth temple where to go for the third stop.


As I learned in my previous pilgrimage, one must be bold and knock on a door or ring a bell or even just walk inside the temple. Feeling brave, Dina and I went into the temple. There was a small doorbell next to a cushion. In English, it said “bell.” So, we pushed it. Simultaneously, there was a motion detector that kept going off when we moved. Behind the closed doors, we could hear someone moving around. In fact, it sounded like he was doing gymnastics. So, we waited. And rang the bell again. And waited. And rang the bell again. Finally, a monk came out not because he was responding to our ringing. He was doing his monkly business and we startled him so badly we thought we might have helped him finish his path to enlightenment. He almost fell over. We tried not to laugh. He recovered immediately and promptly came over, greeted us, set out cushions for us to sit upon and then went to stamp our books. It was incredibly hard not to giggle. When he returned, before we could even ask how to get to temple number three, he took out a map and started explaining how to get there, in Japanese. Very fast Japanese.


To summarize, we were at the purple dot and needed to got to the small blue dot. We had been at the large blue dot in the middle of the intersection. Again, all in Japanese with finger pointing and charades.

Before leaving, we collected Fukurokuju. Fukurokuji: God of health, happiness, and long life.


The other strange part of the conversation was that the monk was so happy to give us directions he almost forgot to give us Fukurokuji. We finally asked and held up our fingers showing little God. More charades…  Ahhhh, hai!

Perhaps, the funniest part, we actually made it to the Itsukushima Temple. Here we collected Benzai-ten. Banzai-ten: Goddess of music, arts, and speech.



Plus, a few early cherry blossom pictures!


Our fifth stop was at the Inari Kio-jinja Shrine. This shrine was so tucked away!!


We collected Ebisu-jin. Ebisu-jin: God of prosperous business.


My favorite picture at this shrine was of the banana at the alter. It seems to be glowing!


To get to the final two temples, we took the train to save a little time and warm up!

Our sixth temple was at the Kyo-o-ji Temple. Here we collected Daikoku-ten. Daikoku-ten: God of grain harvest and wealth.


At this temple, there were many cute statues.


Inside the shrine, we were greeted by a monk who encouraged us to open the window and shake the mallet three times for our wish to come true. So, of course, we shook and wished!!


Our final temple was Zentoku-ji Temple. This temple is dedicated to Bishamon-ten. Bisamon-ten: God of protection from disaster and evil.

The completed Seven Lucky Gods of Shinjuku.
We never received an explanation of the boat during our adventure and so, I looked it up when we returned home. One explanation is the Seven Lucky Gods travel together on a treasure ship (Takarabune) and visit Japanese ports on New Year’s Eve to dispense happiness. Also, the symbol on the flag of the ship is the Chinese character for BAKU. BAKU is a fictional creature said to devour or prevent nightmares. Children are told to place a picture of the ship with the Gods under their pillow on the evening of January first. If the child has a good dream that night, they will be lucky all year.

It was a fun and successful day exploring another part of Tokyo. Honestly, I was pretty impressed with our navigation skills and ability to find all seven Temples/Shrines.

Japan Brewers Cup 2017 

By

On January 29, 2017

In Beer, Google Map, Japan, Train, Yokohama

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m a beer snob. When we learned about the Japan Brewers Cup 2017, I wasn’t quite sure it would be all that. 


Until I realized there was an IPA category. Yes! Dina and her husband accompanied Dave and I and together we took the train to Yokohama. The event was held at Ōsanbashi Pier. Here was our route. 


The Brewers Cup was much less crowded, with more breweries and more English than I expected. The beer variety was very impressive. 

We started with a sampler.


Kanpie! 


Interestingly, Founders All Day Session IPA was #2 in the World Cup. 


The number one IPA is pictured here – they wouldn’wouldn’t let me take a picture of their sign. It was awkward. So, I took from a far. 


There were beers to the left of us and beers to the right… 


It was pretty fun, until Japanese pop music started.​ And we needed to go. To save our eardrums… 

Washi Eggs

By

On January 28, 2017

In Culture, Customs, English, Japan, Tea Box, Wabi-Sabi, Washi Eggs, Washi Paper

My Japanese student, Manami, and I meet once a week in order for me to help her with her English conversation and pronunciation. I find the time we spend together very enjoyable. Manami tells me each time how much it helps her to hear English from a native English speaker.

We met this morning and she arrived with a very special surprise. Her mother, Atsuko, who helped me make the Japanese tea box, made Washi Eggs with Dina and her daughters last Friday. Atsuko sent Dina and email inviting me to come along. Here is the sweet quote from Atsuko that Dina sent to me.

“Dina Julia has no plan today how do you think to come together, eggs are not enough but she stay home is so lonely.”

Unfortunately, they were meeting during my Friday afternoon English class so, I wasn’t able to tag along.

Fortunately, for me, Atsuko is very kind and super sweet. Atsuko made me six Washi Eggs and had Manami bring them to our session today. Atsuko is very thoughtful and they are beautiful.

In case you are unfamiliar with Washi Eggs, they are made by blowing out the yolk of an egg and then covering the hollow egg with washi paper. Washi paper is a thin Japanese paper used when making origami. The washi paper is glued to the egg and then a varnish is applied to seal the paper and create a shiny finish. The final step involves adding a small hook in order to hang the decorated egg.

One more thing to tell you. I loved my Japanese Christmas Tree with the small cell phone charms so much that I ordered a table top birch tree so I could continue to appreciate my charms throughout the year. Since it is no longer Christmas, I renamed my tree. It is now known as the “Japanese Tree of Happiness.” Here is a picture of my “Japanese Tree of Happiness” with my six Washi Eggs!


At first, the differences in the size of the egg and cell phone charms bothered me. Then I realized, the “Japanese Tree of Happiness” portrays wabi-sabi. Finding beauty and happiness with imperfection.

While Manami was here today, I showed her my “Japanese Tree of Happiness” and told her I was going to add the Washi Eggs. I sent her the picture and asked her to share it with her mom, Atsuko. Her mom was pleased to see I enjoy them and that they make me happy.

I took close up pictures so you can see the detail and appreciate the beauty. Notice the paper was cut into strips and then glue precisely in place in order to align the patterns.


I truly love and appreciate the gift I was given today. It was very special. I am adding “make Washi Eggs” to my list of things to do while living here in Japan.

The Art of Peeling a Tangerine 

By

On January 27, 2017

In English, Japan, Tangerine

Apparently, for the past 40+ years, I’ve been peeling my tangerines incorrectly. I’m sure you’re thinking “there’s a wrong way?” You just peel it and eat it. I thought that as well until a couple hours ago. Until I observed my Japanese grandmothers peel and eat a tangerine at snack time during our English class.

Let me back up and start at the beginning. For snack time after our class today, Junko-San brought in a tangerine for everyone. I was quietly relieved because last week I had to not only struggle through my green tea, but also a red bean paste filled dessert. I peeled my tangerine and made what I consider a normal amount of mess one would expect when eating a tangerine. Here is a reenacted photo of my American messiness.


I really dislike the strings and do my best to ensure I remove as many as possible. I place them all in a pile.

After peeling and cleaning, I looked up and realized how messy my napkin was compared to everyone else’s. Here is a reenacted photo of my Japanese grandmother’s napkins.


Yep, they peeled the tangerine without completely tearing it apart. It was like magic. What about the pile of strings? I realized they had placed them neatly inside the perfectly peeled rind. Attempting this at home, it took me about five minutes to peel the tangerine. I felt like I was a cross between a surgeon extracting the tangerine and a sculptor taking care not to damage the peel. It was very stressful.

Keep in mind, it wasn’t just one of the ladies in class peeling their tangerine this way – it was all five of them! I was a little embarrassed with my brash, although very efficient, American method of peeling a tangerine. Yet again making a spectacle of my gaijin (foreigner) self. 

On the train home, I reflected on the possible reasons for their artistic tangerine peeling ways. Here are a few of my ideas.

1. The Japanese are required to separate their trash and peeling a tangerine in this manner makes it easier to throw away into the appropriate container.

2. Fruit is very expensive and considered a delicacy. Therefore, when peeling fruit it should be done with extreme care and love.

3. Americans are messy. Japanese are tidy. This is simply a tidier way to eat a tangerine.

4. None of the above. I’m simply making an orchard out of a tangerine peel.

Regardless, I will be more mindful when peeling tangerines in public in Japan. However, when I am putting Dave’s lunch together in the morning, I will continue to use my American efficiency. Just grip it, rip it, trash it and bag it.

Laforet Grand Bazar

By

On January 26, 2017

In Harajuku, Japan, Neko Atsume, Tokyo, Train, Travel

The first semester ended yesterday for Yokosuka DOD schools. Today and tomorrow are teacher work days. What is a better place to spend days off with kids than in Harajuku? Oh, wait… Kids? Hmmm… Fortunately, Dina agreed to share her sweet girls and we all ventured up together on the train!

Probably my favorite moment of the day was shortly after we took this picture.

 

I (jokingly) told the girls that our Kimono appointment was at noon. They both looked at me as I continued to tell them, I scheduled an appointment for all of us to have a kimono fitting and photo shoot.  The look Dina’s oldest daughter, a teenager, gave her was priceless! From there, the joke only escalated and morphed into an inconceivable Japanese kimono fairy tale. It was hilarious.

We walked down Takeshita street and worked our way to Dominique Ansel Bakery for lunch. On our way, we passed this spectacle. A HUGE group of balloons!

Not only was there a huge thing of balloons, there were a lot of Japanese standing in a long line and a cute little American girl wearing cat ears! Kawaii!

Turns out, the spectacle was actually a very well known sales event. According to my research, the Japanese flock to Harajuku for the semi-annual Grand Bazar sales. The sale includes a six-story complex (plus vendors on the street) with many different well-known Japanese brands. The event offers drastic discounts and amazing bargains if you are willing to stand the crowds.


Knowing we would not have much luck finding our size, we continued on our way to lunch. We thought the girls would enjoy seeing and drinking the blooming hot chocolate at Dominique Ansel Bakery. Plus, I wanted to try the lobster roll.

​

The lobster roll was good. The one I had at Luke’s was better.

After lunch, we spent about an hour and a half wandering around a five-story toy store called Kiddy Land. They had a wide variety of Japan characters and many American. Sadly, no Neko Atsume!

As we walked back towards Takeshita Street, we passed the Laforet Grand Bazar again. This time, the main character was on the street! Seriously. Soak in the number of balls this guy is wearing/carrying. Each time someone asked to have a picture taken with him, he asked, “which ball do you want?” So, bizarre.


Hopefully, the picture is not too grainy but, you really needed to see the details of the makeup on his face.

I laugh each time I look at this one! Her face, his face! Her height, his height! Too, funny. He was definitely not Japanese. However, I think I detected a slight Wisconsin accent.

When you visit, Harajuku is an absolute must! I can’t promise the Bazar but, I can promise the bizarre!

Taya Cavern

By

On January 25, 2017

In Cherry Blossoms, Google Map, Japan, Kamakura, Ofuna, Plum Blossoms, Shrine, Temple

“Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

I received a very nice compliment today. I took Dina to a temple she had yet to visit and to one she had never even heard about after living here for almost two years. She applauded my efforts for setting out and blazing a trail. She gave me the Emerson quote and I have never felt more honored. However, I can’t take too much credit. Because…

Google Maps is pretty amazing. I have become a very confident explorer now that I have learned many of “hidden” (obvious) features. Like the blue arrow that points in the direction you are headed, or the way you can drop a pin on a location and find directions, hours and reviews. This is how I found the Taya Cavern. Seriously. I was just goofing around with Google Maps looking for stuff to do and I found the Taya Cavern which is part of the Josenji-Temple. The pilgrimage to Taya Caverns/Josenji-Temple required a train ride to Ofuna and then a 30-minute urban hike. It was another beautiful day with clear blue skies. Dina still needed to visit The White Lady of Ofuna and it was pretty much on the way. We decided to do both… after lunch!

Lunch! A salad pizza. I might add this to my favorite “pizza” in Japan. I have learned to set expectations low with respect to familiar foods because they just don’t taste the same. This pizza was different and delicious!

A few pictures of one of my favorite temples. You can read more about The White Lady of Ofuna here.

While we were walking around, we discussed how spectacular these Cherry Blossoms will be in a couple months.

After visiting the White Lady, we were off for a 30-minute urban hike to Josenji-Temple. It was tucked away off the side of the road. However, Google Maps led me straight to the entrance without fail!

A pleasant surprise, Ume Blossoms (plum blossoms) were just beginning to bloom.

At the temple, there was a shrine dedicated hundreds of Jizo statues. I needed to research the Jizo a little more. While visiting the shrine, we were left with the impression it was dedicated to children who had passed away. My research informed me the Jizo is a bodhisattva revered among Japanese Buddhists, and the protector of travelers, expectant mothers, and children. This explains the additions to many of the statues within the shrine.

Next, we walked across a small path to the entrance of the caverns. According to the information provided by the Temple, the caverns date back to 1192 and took 500 years to reach the capacity they are today. The caverns were originally 1000m in length however, only 300m are available to visitors. The caverns were hand carved by Buddhist monks seeking enlightenment. “To attain enlightenment, disciples entered the cave. They performed 21-day fasts, sitting in religious meditation, and digging the caves by hand.”

Understanding the caverns were hand carved, we can look past how height challenged Dina and I felt throughout our walk.

Upon entering, we lit our candle and used it to guide us through our passage. No worries, there are also several LED lights along the way!

We were also provided a holder for our candle. It was an amazing experience to walk throughout the tunnels with our candle. I will be honest. We relied on each other several time to relight because candles do not like to move quickly!

One of the MANY carvings. A fish, no a bird, no a dragon!

This is a picture of the ceiling at one of the 17 circle areas designed for worship.

One of many alters throughout the caverns.

Fortunately, the only bat we saw in the cave!

And of course, a Cock!

Several Buddhist sitting upon a lotus flower

At one point while we were walking through the caverns, it became really warm and moist. It was definitely not what one would expect when walking through caves in the winter. I attempted to take a picture of the walls. They were covered in moisture. I told Dina I felt as though I was walking through someone’s mouth it was that humid and damp. It was a little gross.

More carvings…

A couple more pictures to give to an idea of how much we had to duck! And our cool candle holders!

Perhaps my favorite picture. A Buddha carving appearing to hold my candle.

More carvings and a shrine.

At one point, we heard what seemed like a massive amount of flowing water. It was the small drainage pipe hidden behind the faux pine bough. According to my research, splashing water from this “noiseless stream” on a part of your body that causes pain, will heal it. Too bad I didn’t read this before we went for our visit!

It was a very special day. I was excited to take my Japan-savvy friend somewhere she had yet to go and together experience something off the beaten path.

Inamuragasaki Beach

By

On January 24, 2017

In Beach, Enoshima Island, Inamuragasaki Beach, Japan, Kamakura, Mt. Fuji, The Beach, Train

A friend told me about Inamuragasaki Beach. She described it as a beautiful black sand beach with an amazing view of Mt. Fuji (on a clear day). Inamuragasaki Beach is located in Kamakura and accessible by the Enoshima electric train line. Here was my route today. It took about 10 minutes longer to get there than it did to come home. It’s all about train timing!


After I arrived in Inamuragasaki, it was a quick walk to the beach to see this view! Enoshima Island is the foreground of the picture.

A small video to help you enjoy the beach!

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Despite the chilly sea breeze, I enjoyed my walk along the beach. Nothing brings me more peace than walking along a beach listening to waves crash. There were a couple bridges to cover where streams connected with Sagami Bay. Another reason to love Japan. They build bridges at the beach where drainage may cause your feet to get wet! Inamuragasaki Park is in the distance.


As I continued my walk along the beach to Inamuragasaki Park, I couldn’t resist turning around and snapping another picture of Mt. Fuji. It was such a beautiful day. Simultaneously, as I walked the black sand was strangely beautiful and mesmerizing with the crashing waves.


Even on a winter day, the park was lovely.  Besides the views, there was a small daffodil garden.


The park had multiple levels. Each connected with stairs, of course!


With each level, the view became even more magnificent! The first picture I am standing in front of the statue. The caption wasn’t in English so, I am not sure of the meaning.

Interesting statue on the lowest level of the park.


The view from above the daffodil garden…

I took this picture from the middle level. The trees framed Mt. Fuji nicely.

Finally, the view from the top!

We can definitely stop to walk the beach and through the park when you visit. There are a couple restaurants I’m interested in visiting as well!

Fish Heads

By

On January 23, 2017

In Beach, Cherry Blossoms, Enoshima Island, Family Mart, Japan, Mt. Fuji, Navy, Onigiri, Zushi

I went out for a little bit of urban exploring today. Dave and I have been running the same route for our long runs for a while now. To add miles, we will add an extra loop here or there. There is one area where the road goes through a tunnel and is closed to pedestrians. At this location, we simply turn around. We have wondered where the side trail might lead. I decided to take the train into Zushi and then walk over to the area to investigate.

First I made a stop at Zushi Beach. It was a beautiful day.


The first path I checked out led me to a beautiful area. Surfers and paddle boarders use this passage as an access to the area around the point of Zushi Beach.


As always, stairs!


The other path led me to the fancy neighborhood near Ōsaki Park. It was a steep uphill climb. There were a few special treats at the top. The first, Mt. Fuji.


The second, blooming shamrocks.


The third, cherry blossoms starting to bloom!


There were only a few trees in this grove. None the less, I felt the first signs of spring fever! Honestly, this has been a delightful winter. Mostly sunny skies and very mild temperatures. However, I’m very excited to experience the beauty of the spring blooms. I had to make myself stop taking pictures of the blossoms. They were so beautiful and the light was perfect.


One last picture of Mt. Fuji before I tell you about the fish heads.


So, fish heads. After my urban hike, I was ready for a snack. I needed to head to main base via the train to pick up the car after having the oil changed. I stopped at Family Mart. Family Mart is my favorite convenient store chain here in Japan. I grabbed a bottle of water, an onigiri and a bag of Japanese crackers. While walking from the train station to the service station on base, I was snacking on crackers.


Well, I thought they were all crackers. Turns out, they included dried fish.


After I pulled it out of the bag, I had an instant “WTF” moment. Then I remembered, I’m in Japan. They eat fish in everything. Even crackers.

I saved the rest to eat until I got home and could dump out the bag. As you can see, the fish were advertised. I guess I should look closer next time I try a new Japanese snack. In the small dish are all the fish and fish heads included in my snack!


I did try one. They weren’t too bad. They were very crunchy with a salty, sweet fishy taste. The aftertaste kept me from eating another!

Sole Adventures – The LSD 17 Mile March

By

On January 22, 2017

In Friendship, Hayama, Japan, Running, Zushi

I didn’t march on Saturday – my Sunday. I’m so grateful for my family and friends who did march throughout the United States. Washington, New York, Asheville, and Chicago. Each woman I spoke with about their reason for marching was different and yet the same. They were marching for their sister and for our country. I have never been more proud to know so many strong women. Women who are willing to travel miles to support important causes – women’s rights, education equality, climate, human equality, and above all – hope. Hope that the forward progress America has experienced is what makes it great.

Unfortunately, no. I didn’t march. I found out about a march in Tokyo after it happened. Instead, I ran 17 miles step-by-step Sunday morning with my husband. A man who supports me and respects me. A man who encourages me to be strong and outspoken. A man who is more than “ok” to be married to a confident, successful and independent woman. A man who is the first to say, “Team Dwyer for the win” at every achievement or milestone in our life.

As we train for the Tokyo Marathon, I’m running every step with my supporting husband and for my sisters around the world. Together and united we are strong and our voice will be heard. I heard you half way around the world today. Again, I couldn’t be more proud of you all.

This is us, 7.5 miles into our run on a chilly cold morning, supporting each other to run long… yes, I’m trying to smile. Mt. Fuji is in between us.


Our morning wasn’t completely clear, but we could still see Mt. Fuji beyond the haze. The small island in the front is Enoshima Island. The white dot on the island is the Sea Candle.



I also snapped a couple pictures of my favorite view on our long runs.

Living in Japan for the past 6 months has given me a new perspective. I have a much better understanding of what feels like to be different. I don’t blend in – I stick out. With that being said, from the start, the Japanese have accepted my difference. Sure, they might stare a little longer or not sit next to me on the train, but, eventually, they smile and someone will sit down. On several occasions, they have offered to help me understand the train schedule or menu item. The Japanese are kind, polite and helpful. I continue to strive to be all of these things. Every day.

I will leave you with a quote that speaks to me about why America has always been great.

“Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, the wretched refuse of your teeming shore. Send these, the homeless, tempest-tossed, to me: I lift my lamp beside the golden door.”

Emma Lazarus

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