Finding Beauty with Imperfection

Category: Hiking Page 1 of 6

Hiking Levada – Faial Island

We had an early start Wednesday morning in order to catch the ferry from São Jorge to Faial island. The three islands, Pico, São Jorge and Faial are known as the “Azores Triangle.” The ferry system makes it very easy to hop from one island to another. We will be staying in the city center of Horta. Horta is known as the “bustling hub” with its large marina and international airport.

Leaving Velas

Upon arrival in Horta, we met our driver Jeffery. We discussed our hike options because the weather is still very overcast with chances of rain. He suggested we revise our scheduled 15 km (9.3 miles) walk and make it a 9km (5.6 miles). We would still walk around the caldera but reroute down and over instead of walking all the way down to the coast in the clouds with no view. We trusted his local knowledge and off we went! The hike started at the top of the volcano and went around the caldera. The fog and wind were present the entire time! Jeffery told us only 50% of his hikers have a chance to see the bottom of the caldera. We kept our fingers crossed to be part of that 50%!

As we walked around the caldera, the winds would blow the fog away for a few seconds and we could catch glimpses of the bottom.

A quick video of the wind, fog and caldera.

The wind was so STRONG!

As we continued around, we could catch glimpses of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance.

A few more pictures from the caldera loop. it was really fun to watch the trail disappear as we hiked.

The second part of the hike was an easy downhill along an access road. The lower section of this road would have consisted of the 6km we didn’t hike. We were glad we chose this route instead!

The third part of the hike was through a well established trail through the forest. We hiked along the manmade canal the entire way. The trail did get a bit muddy at times. Making it all the more fun and adventurous.

Several times we had to cross bridges to continue. The bridges were so well camouflaged!

At one point the trail became very muddy. There was no way around but through!

Several of the trees were very unique!

A few flower pictures to complete the lovely hike.

As we finished, we snapped a finish line selfie and a picture of our muddy boots. Plus, our Mercedes van and Jeffery patiently waiting. This was a very fun hike. We laughed so much about the strong winds and mud. It truly was an adventure!

We cleaned up and made our way out into the town for dinner. We decided on a local bar because rain was imminent. The bars were packed because the Portugal / RD Congo soccer game was on TV. We settled in and ordered yet another cheese plate and wine. So, yummy.

As always, thank you for reading! Cheers!

Lighthouse Hike

Tuesday’s adventure on São Jorge was a 10km hike out to a lighthouse on the eastern end of the island. First, breakfast. We are staying at Casa do Antonio. It is a very lovely bed and breakfast right in the downtown of Velas. Breakfast was simple and included all the important items: coffee, yogurt, and cheese! Four different types of cheese all made here in the island.

After breakfast, our driver Antonio, picked us up to take us to the start of the hike. We were supposed to hike an extra long hike from crest to crest and then hike down similar to what we did yesterday. But, the weather didn’t cooperate. It is very foggy this morning at “higher” elevations. Instead, Antonio recommended a hike out to the lighthouse. Sounds good – let’s go!

Instead of using Macs Adventure app to track our hike I used AllTrails. Antonia dropped us off and said to call him once we reached the park. Off we go! A foggy hike awaits.

The first half of the hike to the lighthouse was completely in the fog. Instead of focusing on the non existent view, we turned our attention to the beautiful fauna.

Prior to reaching the lighthouse, we climbed stairs to view an old whale spotting shelter. Whaling was legal for about 100 years before being globally banded in 1986.

We ate lunch by the whale spotting tower and watched as the fog rolled in and out. Trying to burn off…

After our picnic lunch, we made our way to the lighthouse. It was definitely not picturesque lighthouse we were expecting!!

Well. Let’s keep going…. Back up / down the foggy trail we go!

I took a picture of the sign showing this was a protected area. If you look closely, you can see where the lighthouse is located and how much the island continues and juts out in a very narrow ridge with steep cliffs on either side.

Our hike back took us past many pastures with lots of happy cows.

Without fail, we made it to the park. I called Antonio and let him know we made it and ready for a pickup. He gave me a 40 minute standby. Which worked out because the park where we were meeting was unexpected as well. It had little trails throughout with lots of different trees, plants and moss!

Another unexpected find was a beautiful tile mural depicting how laundry was done. This was communal area beside an old church.

While we waited, we also saw a cow parade. We saw this group of cows on our way back from our hike. The farmers were using the bull to impregnate the cows. I’m assuming after his chance in the pen with the cows they take them back to their own farm for the night? Farm life is interesting.

Cow parade

Antonio picked us up and on the way back to our hotel, he arranged for us to have picnic breakfast for the early ferry and for a taxi to pick us up. His hospitality and attention to detail has been spot on! There are only two restaurants downtown Velas. Unfortunately, the one we didn’t try last night is closed on Tuesday. So, we returned to the same one and tried different plates – except the cheesy garlic bread. It was too good to not order again.

Tomorrow we catch an early ferry to the island of Faial. We are hoping for clearer weather because we are scheduled to hike around a volcano caldera. Thanks for reading!

Hiking Pilgram’s Pass

Monday morning we caught the ferry from Madalena on Pico Island to Velas on São Jorge Island. The process of checking in, checking our luggage, and then boarding the ferry was incredibly smooth and efficient.

Boarding selfie. You might notice a theme in our selfies today… crazy hair!

The ferry took about and 1.5 hours. Although the seas appeared calm, the ferry was a bit rocky!

We arrived in Velas around 11:15. Collected our luggage and meet our taxi driver without issue. We were not supposed to begin our hike until 1:30pm. We asked Antonio, our driver, if we could start as soon as possible. He had another group going as well and arranged with them to go early. He was so kind and accommodating. He dropped us at the hotel and went to get the group while we checked in. Our accommodation is a Bed and Breakfast, Casa de Antonio. Our host, Antonio, had our room ready and helped us check in and then showed us to our room. The hospitality was top notch. Our driver, Antonio, returned and off we went on our 5.6 mile hike!

The Pilgram’s Path hike is known to be one of the most beautiful on the island. It begins at Topo, one of the island’s crests, and descends down to the north coast. It was used by pilgrims to reach the wild north coast which is still very isolated.

We had been given many warnings the trail is very steep especially in the beginning. The warnings were validated as we descended! But, first – the view!

If only we were a few weeks later, we would see all the hydrangeas in bloom.

The views were incredible. I’m not sure I’ve seen anything like it before. It was so quiet and peaceful.

As we descended, the trail would change and close in and yet remained very rocky.

About 2/3 of the way down we stopped to enjoy our picnic lunch. Perhaps our peanut butter and crackers and an apple weren’t gourmet… but, the view certainly was!

View from our picnic lunch

As we continued down, we caught up with a river and a little waterfall.

Plus, at lower the lower elevation we started to see blooming hydrangeas.

We saw this roof from above and it looked tiny. Obviously, human size once we were next to it. And our first view of the island’s north coastline.

Fajā Santo Cristo is a one of a kind sight. Only accessible by foot (or now also 4 wheelers) it has a beautiful church and lagoon. This was my first time actually walking through a hamlet!

The north coast is protected and now considered a surfer’s paradise. As we climbed back up it was easy to understand why. The wave train had perfectly timed crests.

We continued our “relatively” flat climb for the second half of our hike. The dirt/ rock trail had lots of ups and downs with more amazing views.

One of my favorite pictures of the day. My mom celebrated her 77th birthday today and here she is at trail marker 77!

Happy 77th birthday!

We made it to the finish line a bit later than we hoped. We truly “savored” the experience. I called Antonio earlier and let him know we were running late. He was so kind and understanding. We also met up with the other hikers he was transferring. They had used the extra time to swim in the lagoon. On our way home, we ran into a cow jam. The farmers walk their cows to the milking building and then walk them back to their farm. Truly happy cows make the best cheese! São Jorge is known for their delicious cheese!

We returned to the hotel, showered, and went out to dinner!

It was an amazing day. The hike was one of the most beautiful hikes I’ve ever done. I would also rate it as a moderate challenge with the amount of descent we did. As always, thanks for reading!

Hiking Church to Church in Pico

Our Saturday started early with a 4:15 reveille in order to catch a 7am flight from Porta Delgado to Pico. The flight was quick – about 45 minutes. The plane was cute but not terribly small.

Like most islands you cross the tarmac to board

Our transfer dropped us at our hotel. We were prepared to drop our bags and start hiking while we waited for our room. However, to our delight, the room was ready and we were invited to enjoy breakfast. Yes, please! After breakfast, we headed out for our 7.6 mile coastal hike. The hike started and ended at a church.

The starting church

The hike took us along the beautiful coastline.

The hike hugged the coast in the beginning and gave us so many beautiful views of huge rocks and Faial Island. We will visit Faial island towards the end of our trip.

We have been hoping to see hydrangeas in bloom. And we did! So many and so many colors.

The other interesting part of the hike was all the grapevines and the creative way they have adapted to grow them. To protect the vines from wind and weather, they use the basalt rock to build half circles around them. This blocks the wind/ weather and also provides the vines with support as they grow.

We followed the trail provided by Macs Adventure and it was also well marked with horizontal red and yellow lines. There would be a yellow and red X if you went the wrong way and a red turn if you needed to turn.

One of my favorite parts of the hike took us between the grapevine and down a rocky corridor. So unique.

Along the route there were several natural swimming holes. We were tempted to jump in for a swim… but, the morning was still cool and we kept on stepping. Plus, the waves were pretty intense.

The trail took us inland a couple times and the temperature would warm and the breeze would stop. Also, we had quite a few up and downs. Eventually, we had one final uphill push to our finish line church.

We had a taxi pick us up and returned us to the hotel. Our hike was 7.67 miles and took us about 4 hours. It was a good hike to work off the jet lag and help us get acclimated. We picked a Tapas & wine bar for dinner. We ordered tuna tataki, shrimp bao bun and tempura veggies. Plus wine. And dessert. Crème brûlée and cheesecake. Absolutely, delicious.

It was a very delightful day and I was definitely ready to sleep by the end. As always, thank you for reading.

Florida to Ponta Delgado

Summer vacation! My mom and I left Florida Thursday morning. Our destination- Ponta Delgado in the Azores. We had a slightly long layer over in Boston before catching our red eye flight to the big island of São Miguel.

Boston!

The Azores are a collection of nine islands off the coast of Portugal. We are using the same company, Macs Adventure, as we used when we went to Greece a couple years ago. They arrange all of our transfers, accommodations and hikes. We will spend the week hopping around four of the nine islands.

Our arrival was too early to check into our hotel. So, we dropped our bags and grabbed breakfast. A delicious bowl of yogurt and fresh fruit and scrambled eggs plus an assortment of Azores bread.

Breakfast

A few shots of the gates to the city and the reflection pond.

After refueling, we set out for an hike to the botanical garden of José do Canto. He lived during the 19th century and was an avid arborist. He planted a unique assortment of trees around his mansion and property. We enjoyed a nice stroll admiring his eclectic green thumb.

We wondered back to city center. The streets of Ponta Delgado are made of black Basalt and White Limestone. They are lovely. Different streets have different designs.

By this point, we were running out of steam. Jet lag is real! We decided to have lunch and a beer. Priming ourselves for a nap. Pizza and beer!

Our timing was perfect. Right as we ordered, I received a call from our hotel informing us our room was ready! Yay! Nap time!

We woke up somewhat refreshed and wondered out to get provisions for our hike in the morning and a small snack. Dinner consisted of a cheese board, olives, and local wine from the island of Pico.

After dinner, we headed back to the hotel because in the morning we have a 7am flight to Pico followed by a 7 mile hike. Adventure awaits! As always, thanks for reading.

Cannon Beach to Lincoln City

Before leaving the northern part of the coast, we went to Ecola State Park for a lovely morning hike. Ecola SP has been the filming location for several movies. The Goonies, Kindergarten Cop, Point Break and Twilight. The rocky coast line and dramatic cliff make it perfect for the big screen. Our hike was a 3.5 loop with 1000ft of elevation.

After our hike and check out, we started our drive down the coast. Our final destination was Lincoln City.

We are using the GuideAlong app again. Alfred our narrator, is like having an old friend in the car. Plus, he has so many stories and knows where all the fun places to stop are located. Like Pronto Pups! We wouldn’t have stopped for a Pronto Pup if Alfred hadn’t told us it was the original Pronto Pup location!

Our next stop was at the Tillamook Cheese Factory. We completed the self guided tour, sampled cheese and decided to enjoy some ice cream!

Alfred gave us two options for the drive. We could hug the coast or go more inland on the 101. We decided to take the scenic coastal drive. We had so many fun places to stop. The first was Cape Meares to see the light house and Octopus Tree! The Octopus Tree is a 300 year old Sitka Pine and there is still debate as to how the Octopus Tree formed. Naturally or was it created by humans. We may never know…

Our drive continued along the coast with a stop for some salt and salted caramels at Jacobsen Salt Company. (Another suggestion by Alfred) They harvest the salt from the Pacific Ocean and ship to chefs all around the world. The caramels made a lovely addition to our car snacks.

The last stop along this part of the coast was Pacific City. We hopped out to see the beach and were amazed at the giant sand dune.

We made it to Lincoln City in time for check in. The inn is right on the ocean. It’s so lovely. We slept with the sliding door open listening to the waves all night. Nature’s natural sound machine.

We enjoyed another amazing sunset. We walked the beach for a bit and then came back to the fire pits at the hotel.

More adventures await! Thanks for reading!

One Final Summit

Well, as we left Acadia, it was time to say goodbye to my beloved Vasque Hiking Boats. While I was coming back down from our mountain goat trek to get to the bubbles, Dave was guiding me where to place my foot because I was coming down “blind” – not able to see down & where to place my feet. As he was directing me, he said, “I hate to be the one to tell you this, your boots are falling apart.” What? And well, that explains a lot. Between this trip and the trip we made to Utah in December, I noticed that my boots felt funny and not as cushy. I even replaced the insoles to try and help the situation. Well, the situation couldn’t be helped because the soles had separated from the shoe and the gel cushion had dry rotted and was flaking out the side.

I bought these boots in July of 2007 before my mom and I went on a hiking trip to Santa Fe, NM. At the time I spent somewhere between $150-$200 for them and I thought that was pretty expensive. Considering they lasted 18 years, I suppose I got my money’s worth. Dave and I started a list of where I have hiked with these boots:

  • Santa Fe, NM
  • Taos, NM x 2
  • Canadian Rockies (Banff & Jasper)
  • Glacier NP
  • Waterton- Glacier International Peace Park
  • Yosemite NP x 2 (Half Dome once)
  • Isle Royal NP
  • Mount Fuji x 3
  • Numerous hikes all over Japan
  • Lassen NP
  • Crater Lake NP
  • Big Sur, CA
  • Redwood NP x 2
  • Colorado x 3 (Aspen, Breckenridge, Boulder, Denver, Crested Butte, Maroon Belles and others)
  • Rocky Mountain NP
  • Arches NP
  • Canyonlands NP
  • Dead Horse State Park, UT
  • Park City, UT
  • Kings Canyon & Sequoia NP
  • Hot Springs NP
  • The Wave, UT
  • Grand Staircase National Monument
  • Bryce Canyon NP
  • Zion NP (Angels Landing)
  • Acadia NP
  • Countless State Parks
  • And numerous other “local hikes”

Rest in Peace my hiking friends. I hope the next pair of hiking boots treat me just as well.

Acadia NP Day 4

For our final day in Acadia NP we decided to explore the lesser known/ lesser traveled west peninsula of Mount Desert Island.

Acadia National Park

We tuned into our favorite narrator “Albert” as we drove. He provides entertainment and information. Our first stop was at the Beech Mountain trail head. Beech Mountain trail is a short loop that climbs up giving you spectacular views of Bass Harbor and Long Pond. Both were lovely.

I took this picture because this tree is already fighting! He’s growing on the granite rocks! I can only imagine how impressive he will be in the next 20-30 years. Grow strong, friend!

The summit view and breeze were worth the steps!

The descent included beautiful views of Long Pond.

After our hike, we jumped in the car and returned to Alfred’s narration. He recommended we stop in Southwest Harbor and walk the town. I am happy we listened. We stopped for ice cream and I was able to get my Maine Blueberry 🫐 ice cream. It was so delicious.

Continuing the drive, we headed to Ship Harbor Trail. This trail is flat, family friendly and has forest and shore views. As well as a few boardwalk trails.

The pink granite that makes up most of Acadia was on full display along this part of the coast. So beautiful!

The trail was a figure 8 which gave us a chance to see more of the forest.

Once we completed the hike, we jumped in the car and drove a half mile up the road to hike the Wonderland trail. This trail was a short flat out and back.

Those hikes were perfectly lovely. The reviews I read gave them much more positive feedback. I would give them a sold 5/10. Again, great for kids and families.

We returned to the car for one final stop on this peninsula. We needed to snap a picture of the famous Bass Harbor Lighthouse. It’s still there and still photogenic.

For our final vacation dinner, Dave made us reservations at Havana in Bar Harbor. We ordered cocktails and that’s when I noticed the card on the table. So cute, the staff gave me a happy birthday card.

For dinner Dave ordered paella and I order one final lobster dish. Both were delicious.

The Lobster Moqueca was incredible. The dish is made with coconut cream, onion, red peppers, and lime juice. It was served with jasmine rice and lots of lobster!

We didn’t have room for dessert, but, they had a sweet surprise.

Thank you for following along with me as we explored Acadia NP. Although, a smaller national park, it has so many hidden treasures and amazing hikes. We didn’t do everything- we did what we could and enjoyed every moment. Until next time!

Acadia NP Day 3

Our third day at the park included the full drive around Park Loop Road. We once again purchased and downloaded the Acadia Tour from the GuideAlong app. I highly recommend the app and the audio guides they provide. The narrator, who we named “Alfred”, is fantastic. The app’s ability to know exactly where you are and which direction you are heading is great and a little creepy. Anyways, Alfred guided us along Park Loop Road and we were glad he did. There are several “secret” places that without Alfred to tell us to stop, we would have missed bc there are no signs nor designated parking areas.

Precipice Mountain is one of THE mountains to hike in the park. However, May – August the area is closed because the Peregrine Falcons are nesting. In the 1950s the Peregrine population was almost extinct because of the chemical DDT. The endangered species act, banning of DDT, and a dedicated effort by park officials has helped the Peregrine Falcon population soar in Acadia.

The other main mountain people seek to hike is Bee Hive. From the reviews I read, its sounds like a great hike with all of the thousands of tourists. It was described as a “conga line” by one review. We honestly have been kindof surprised by the amount of tourists. And so, knowing it’s going to be crowded, we passed. plus, the parking lot was a zoo when we passed so we felt confident in our decision.

Instead, we walked along the Ocean Path and enjoyed spectacular views of the Harbor and rocky Maine coastline. Another item on my list completed. Explore the coast. ✔️ And it was beautiful!

Our first stopping point was Thunder Hole. I read mixed reviews about Thunder Hole, some calling it Thunder-less Hole if there were no storms or tidal changes. We were pleasantly surprised for a calm morning.

How about a video for sound and understanding of the force!

So what’s going on? the ocean has carved a cave at water level. When the water runs out airs fills in. Water rushes in with the waves and creates a thundering sound as the air is forced out.

More scientific explanation

One more video… the shadows give perspective on size.

Our next stop was to park and stroll along the Ocean Path.

Caught another item on my Maine list – see a working Lobster 🦞Boat.

We reached the end of the path and doubled back to the car. Still so beautiful.

We jumped back in the car and Alfred encouraged us to stop and observe the bridge. Much of the park was a gift from John D. Rockefeller. This bridge is one example of how Rockefeller took advice from knowledgeable engineers. Instead of creating a straight road, the engineer advised Rockefeller – a curved bridge that mirrored the sand bar would be a better option. We agreed.

Curved bridge

Our next stop was at Little Hunters Beach. An unmarked yet easily accessible beach with lovely round stones. Alfred encouraged this stop as well. Years and years of waves have rolled these stones smooth and round.

The sound is so meditative

That was our final stop for the day and completed our tour of Park Loop Road. We did the other part yesterday. We headed back to Bar Harbor for lunch. On the menu, lobster bisque and clam chowder. The lobster claw at the bottom of my bisque was a fun surprise.

The final part of our day was to watch the sunset from Cadillac Mountain. We took a small picnic and found a spot away from the huge crowd. All was lovely. However, we both agreed the warm temperatures gave it a bit of a haze. Beautiful regardless.

We also agreed sunrise the day before was more spectacular. Thanks for reading!

Acadia NP Day 2

This should come as no surprise, day 2 started off chasing sunrise. During the months May – October you must have tickets to drive up Cadillac Mountain. (the highest peak in the park) From October 7th – March 6th Cadillac Mountain is the first spot to observe the sunrise in the United States. This is due to its height and proximity to the coast. Because of the earth’s tilt during the spring/ summer months other places along the seaboard actually observe it earlier. We had tickets to drive up Cadillac Mountain starting at 4:30am. We were up at 3 am. Leaving the Airbnb by 4 and on top of the mountain by 4:30am. Here’s my first picture.

Pre- sunrise atop of Cadillac Mountain

There are limited tickets available – however, that still doesn’t prevent a lot of people from participating. Turns out it doesn’t matter the size of the vehicle or how many people inside. Just one ticket required. To say it was crowded would be an understatement. Plus, there was little etiquette. People were talking too loudly and constantly standing / sitting directly in front of you. Fortunately, the chaos doesn’t show in the pictures. I was constantly bobbing and weaving to capture my pictures. Here are a few…

An hour later, the sun made its appearance. Good morning, sunshine ☀️

After officially declaring it a successful sunrise, we jumped in the car and heading to Jordan Pond. Jordan Pond is a beautiful area with a 3.2 mile trail that circles the lake. Jordan Pond is 150 feet deep – making it the deepest lake in the park. Also, it is a public water supply, so no swimming. From the start of the trail, you have a great view of The Bubbles.

The Bubbles are two small mountains- North Bubble and South Bubble. Although they appear to be the same size, they aren’t. The south bubble is closer making it appear larger.

We began our walk around Jordan Pond. It was beautiful in the quiet of the early morning.

My plan was for us to hike from the pond trail to the bubbles summit. Then we realized we needed to be mountain goats. We decided to turn around and just go to the Bubbles parking lot and hike from there.

We clambered back down to the pond trail and finished the rest of the loop around Jordan Pond.

The highlight of the trail for us was the boardwalk. To protect the fragile pond shore ecosystem, the park built a lovely boardwalk.

One thing I have noticed after our two days in the park is the resilience of the trees. They will grow anywhere and on anything. The ultimate survivors / fighters are the trees who will grow on top of a rock. A granite rock at that!

This one is a fighter!

We finished our hike around the lake and jumped in the car. We continued up Park Loop Road to the parking lot for Bubble Rock. It took a little patience and a little jockeying, but we got a parking spot and proceeded to climb to the top of the North Bubble and then to the top of the South Bubble. Mountain goat skills not required when hiking this way.

The highlight of the South Bubble is Bubble Rock. It is a large boulder that hitch a 40-mile ride on a glacier. It’s is precariously suspended on the edge of the South Bubble.

By this point in our day, we were exhausted (we had been up for 8 hours and hiking 6 of them). All we had the energy for was a quick stop at the visitor center. We stopped at the Visitor Center and groaned when we saw the sign that the visitor center was 52 stairs up from the parking lot. Haha. 😆 We passed several families with kids and the kids were all counting each step. My legs were counting, too!

We enjoyed a nice shower and nap before dinner. Our dinner was a delicious reward. Dave ordered the lobster 🦞 platter and I tried another lobster roll. This one was good… however, as predicted, yesterday’s was better!

Day 2 was a success! I’m slowly crossing off my “Maine List”. Lobster Roll, watch the sunrise, hike until my legs are exhausted, enjoy blueberry pie. Now I just need the moose to participate. As always, thanks for reading!

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