Thursday we had an easy coastal hike to see the coast, obviously, and also two lighthouses. A volcanic eruption lasting from September 1957 until October 1958 caused the land to 2.4 square km. The reason there are two lighthouses is because the original one has been shut down since the eruption and the new lighthouse was constructed. We have noticed the lighthouses on the islands seem to be very utilitarian vice scenic. Perhaps, the Portuguese don’t want to take away from the beauty of the land and the ocean…
The hike along the coast was beautiful. All the volcanic rocks! They were so jagged and rough. It’s amazing to think these were projected during the explosion.
Walking out to the edgeMoonscape off in the distance Lava bombFlowers
Peering over the edge, the jagged lava rocks have been completely smoothed by the waves. The power of water is intense!
There was cute little beach area that had umbrellas and swimming access.
Shower On the edgeCabana timeBeach dazeAtlantic blueBeach time Waves
We finished the last part of the hike up to the old lighthouse. This one we were able to climb to the top. Also, they have a museum built underground. The circle is the roof of the museum.
The area now is protected because there are several species of birds nesting in the rocks and cliffs. Here is a video from the top of the lighthouse. I zoomed in to see the birds.
Spiral stairs in lighthouse
After our hike, museum tour and lighthouse climb, we met our driver, Jeffery, who drove us back to town. We found a nice little cafe to enjoy lunch with a view of Mt Pico and the company of bird friends.
Melted cheese and olives. YumPork croquettes Lunch friendMt Pico
We had a few hours to burn this afternoon before our flight back to Ponta Delgado. We shopped the town and took more pictures of the fun street designs.
We had an early start Wednesday morning in order to catch the ferry from São Jorge to Faial island. The three islands, Pico, São Jorge and Faial are known as the “Azores Triangle.” The ferry system makes it very easy to hop from one island to another. We will be staying in the city center of Horta. Horta is known as the “bustling hub” with its large marina and international airport.
Leaving Velas
Upon arrival in Horta, we met our driver Jeffery. We discussed our hike options because the weather is still very overcast with chances of rain. He suggested we revise our scheduled 15 km (9.3 miles) walk and make it a 9km (5.6 miles). We would still walk around the caldera but reroute down and over instead of walking all the way down to the coast in the clouds with no view. We trusted his local knowledge and off we went! The hike started at the top of the volcano and went around the caldera. The fog and wind were present the entire time! Jeffery told us only 50% of his hikers have a chance to see the bottom of the caldera. We kept our fingers crossed to be part of that 50%!
Tunnel to view calderaWhat caldera? Starting selfieSign at start of hikeSmall shrine for hikersDo I see blue skies? Hint of the bottom?
As we walked around the caldera, the winds would blow the fog away for a few seconds and we could catch glimpses of the bottom.
Trail Lake at bottom of calderaTrailFlowers above foggy calderaCalderaSides of calderaTrailAnother glimpse of the bottom
A quick video of the wind, fog and caldera.
The wind was so STRONG!
As we continued around, we could catch glimpses of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance.
A few more pictures from the caldera loop. it was really fun to watch the trail disappear as we hiked.
Steps downSqueeze through the rocksWild celeryLost trailFog trail
The second part of the hike was an easy downhill along an access road. The lower section of this road would have consisted of the 6km we didn’t hike. We were glad we chose this route instead!
The third part of the hike was through a well established trail through the forest. We hiked along the manmade canal the entire way. The trail did get a bit muddy at times. Making it all the more fun and adventurous.
Start of the forest sectionLooking into the woodsStepping stonesBeautiful BridgeMy mom on the bridge with forest all aroundHere we go…Stepping stones over the canal when it was extra muddy
Several times we had to cross bridges to continue. The bridges were so well camouflaged!
Can you spot the bridge? From the other direction?
At one point the trail became very muddy. There was no way around but through!
A few flower pictures to complete the lovely hike.
Lace hydrangeas Hydrangeas Lace hydrangeaFinal section of trail
As we finished, we snapped a finish line selfie and a picture of our muddy boots. Plus, our Mercedes van and Jeffery patiently waiting. This was a very fun hike. We laughed so much about the strong winds and mud. It truly was an adventure!
We cleaned up and made our way out into the town for dinner. We decided on a local bar because rain was imminent. The bars were packed because the Portugal / RD Congo soccer game was on TV. We settled in and ordered yet another cheese plate and wine. So, yummy.
Tuesday’s adventure on São Jorge was a 10km hike out to a lighthouse on the eastern end of the island. First, breakfast. We are staying at Casa do Antonio. It is a very lovely bed and breakfast right in the downtown of Velas. Breakfast was simple and included all the important items: coffee, yogurt, and cheese! Four different types of cheese all made here in the island.
The small rectangular piece was my favorite His own brand on all the dishes
After breakfast, our driver Antonio, picked us up to take us to the start of the hike. We were supposed to hike an extra long hike from crest to crest and then hike down similar to what we did yesterday. But, the weather didn’t cooperate. It is very foggy this morning at “higher” elevations. Instead, Antonio recommended a hike out to the lighthouse. Sounds good – let’s go!
Instead of using Macs Adventure app to track our hike I used AllTrails. Antonia dropped us off and said to call him once we reached the park. Off we go! A foggy hike awaits.
Starting selfieFoggy trail
The first half of the hike to the lighthouse was completely in the fog. Instead of focusing on the non existent view, we turned our attention to the beautiful fauna.
Prior to reaching the lighthouse, we climbed stairs to view an old whale spotting shelter. Whaling was legal for about 100 years before being globally banded in 1986.
Whale spotting tower at the topTrail Blaze
We ate lunch by the whale spotting tower and watched as the fog rolled in and out. Trying to burn off…
View when we arrivedSlowly fog clearsSteps up and view to the other sideLunch friend
After our picnic lunch, we made our way to the lighthouse. It was definitely not picturesque lighthouse we were expecting!!
Abandoned LighthouseDo Not Enter!
Well. Let’s keep going…. Back up / down the foggy trail we go!
I took a picture of the sign showing this was a protected area. If you look closely, you can see where the lighthouse is located and how much the island continues and juts out in a very narrow ridge with steep cliffs on either side.
Our hike back took us past many pastures with lots of happy cows.
Red roadHappy cowsCow friendRed road trailFog trying to clear
Without fail, we made it to the park. I called Antonio and let him know we made it and ready for a pickup. He gave me a 40 minute standby. Which worked out because the park where we were meeting was unexpected as well. It had little trails throughout with lots of different trees, plants and moss!
Duck houseOther side of duck house Bird friendMoss Lichen Table and stools
Another unexpected find was a beautiful tile mural depicting how laundry was done. This was communal area beside an old church.
Tile muralWashing stations
While we waited, we also saw a cow parade. We saw this group of cows on our way back from our hike. The farmers were using the bull to impregnate the cows. I’m assuming after his chance in the pen with the cows they take them back to their own farm for the night? Farm life is interesting.
Cow parade
Antonio picked us up and on the way back to our hotel, he arranged for us to have picnic breakfast for the early ferry and for a taxi to pick us up. His hospitality and attention to detail has been spot on! There are only two restaurants downtown Velas. Unfortunately, the one we didn’t try last night is closed on Tuesday. So, we returned to the same one and tried different plates – except the cheesy garlic bread. It was too good to not order again.
Cheesy Garlic breadShrimp risotto Seasonal VeggiesOur B&B from the restaurant
Tomorrow we catch an early ferry to the island of Faial. We are hoping for clearer weather because we are scheduled to hike around a volcano caldera. Thanks for reading!
Monday morning we caught the ferry from Madalena on Pico Island to Velas on São Jorge Island. The process of checking in, checking our luggage, and then boarding the ferry was incredibly smooth and efficient.
Boarding selfie. You might notice a theme in our selfies today… crazy hair!
The ferry took about and 1.5 hours. Although the seas appeared calm, the ferry was a bit rocky!
Leaving PicoPassing our rock islandsMt pico hidingMt Pico in full viewPortugal FlagFirst view of São Jorge
We arrived in Velas around 11:15. Collected our luggage and meet our taxi driver without issue. We were not supposed to begin our hike until 1:30pm. We asked Antonio, our driver, if we could start as soon as possible. He had another group going as well and arranged with them to go early. He was so kind and accommodating. He dropped us at the hotel and went to get the group while we checked in. Our accommodation is a Bed and Breakfast, Casa de Antonio. Our host, Antonio, had our room ready and helped us check in and then showed us to our room. The hospitality was top notch. Our driver, Antonio, returned and off we went on our 5.6 mile hike!
Overlook view of the town of VelasMt Pico in the distance
The Pilgram’s Path hike is known to be one of the most beautiful on the island. It begins at Topo, one of the island’s crests, and descends down to the north coast. It was used by pilgrims to reach the wild north coast which is still very isolated.
“The Walker” statue tributes all who hike trails in the AzoresLooking SouthOff we go! Starting out… before we see the view
We had been given many warnings the trail is very steep especially in the beginning. The warnings were validated as we descended! But, first – the view!
If only we were a few weeks later, we would see all the hydrangeas in bloom.
Hydrangeas More hydrangeas One early bloomerTrail blaze
The views were incredible. I’m not sure I’ve seen anything like it before. It was so quiet and peaceful.
The Atlantic OceanAnother crazy hair selfie
As we descended, the trail would change and close in and yet remained very rocky.
Trail friends – goats
About 2/3 of the way down we stopped to enjoy our picnic lunch. Perhaps our peanut butter and crackers and an apple weren’t gourmet… but, the view certainly was!
View from our picnic lunch
As we continued down, we caught up with a river and a little waterfall.
Plus, at lower the lower elevation we started to see blooming hydrangeas.
We saw this roof from above and it looked tiny. Obviously, human size once we were next to it. And our first view of the island’s north coastline.
Fajā Santo Cristo and the Lagoon
Fajā Santo Cristo is a one of a kind sight. Only accessible by foot (or now also 4 wheelers) it has a beautiful church and lagoon. This was my first time actually walking through a hamlet!
ChurchLagoonHousing Starting to climb againCliffs above usMore cliffs
The north coast is protected and now considered a surfer’s paradise. As we climbed back up it was easy to understand why. The wave train had perfectly timed crests.
We continued our “relatively” flat climb for the second half of our hike. The dirt/ rock trail had lots of ups and downs with more amazing views.
The water is so clear Flat ground felt good
One of my favorite pictures of the day. My mom celebrated her 77th birthday today and here she is at trail marker 77!
Happy 77th birthday!
We made it to the finish line a bit later than we hoped. We truly “savored” the experience. I called Antonio earlier and let him know we were running late. He was so kind and understanding. We also met up with the other hikers he was transferring. They had used the extra time to swim in the lagoon. On our way home, we ran into a cow jam. The farmers walk their cows to the milking building and then walk them back to their farm. Truly happy cows make the best cheese! São Jorge is known for their delicious cheese!
We returned to the hotel, showered, and went out to dinner!
MusselsPesto pasta with cheeseGarlic cheese bread (best I’ve ever had)Dessert – a creamy angel food cake
It was an amazing day. The hike was one of the most beautiful hikes I’ve ever done. I would also rate it as a moderate challenge with the amount of descent we did. As always, thanks for reading!
Our Saturday started early with a 4:15 reveille in order to catch a 7am flight from Porta Delgado to Pico. The flight was quick – about 45 minutes. The plane was cute but not terribly small.
Like most islands you cross the tarmac to board
Our transfer dropped us at our hotel. We were prepared to drop our bags and start hiking while we waited for our room. However, to our delight, the room was ready and we were invited to enjoy breakfast. Yes, please! After breakfast, we headed out for our 7.6 mile coastal hike. The hike started and ended at a church.
The starting church
The hike took us along the beautiful coastline.
Wildflowers Pico PortRock ecosystemFaial Island in the background
The hike hugged the coast in the beginning and gave us so many beautiful views of huge rocks and Faial Island. We will visit Faial island towards the end of our trip.
We have been hoping to see hydrangeas in bloom. And we did! So many and so many colors.
The other interesting part of the hike was all the grapevines and the creative way they have adapted to grow them. To protect the vines from wind and weather, they use the basalt rock to build half circles around them. This blocks the wind/ weather and also provides the vines with support as they grow.
Grapes!They go on and on
We followed the trail provided by Macs Adventure and it was also well marked with horizontal red and yellow lines. There would be a yellow and red X if you went the wrong way and a red turn if you needed to turn.
One of my favorite parts of the hike took us between the grapevine and down a rocky corridor. So unique.
Figs & lantana
Along the route there were several natural swimming holes. We were tempted to jump in for a swim… but, the morning was still cool and we kept on stepping. Plus, the waves were pretty intense.
The trail took us inland a couple times and the temperature would warm and the breeze would stop. Also, we had quite a few up and downs. Eventually, we had one final uphill push to our finish line church.
Inland viewsOne last view of the water Leaving the water Finish line
We had a taxi pick us up and returned us to the hotel. Our hike was 7.67 miles and took us about 4 hours. It was a good hike to work off the jet lag and help us get acclimated. We picked a Tapas & wine bar for dinner. We ordered tuna tataki, shrimp bao bun and tempura veggies. Plus wine. And dessert. Crème brûlée and cheesecake. Absolutely, delicious.
It was a very delightful day and I was definitely ready to sleep by the end. As always, thank you for reading.
Summer vacation! My mom and I left Florida Thursday morning. Our destination- Ponta Delgado in the Azores. We had a slightly long layer over in Boston before catching our red eye flight to the big island of São Miguel.
Boston!
The Azores are a collection of nine islands off the coast of Portugal. We are using the same company, Macs Adventure, as we used when we went to Greece a couple years ago. They arrange all of our transfers, accommodations and hikes. We will spend the week hopping around four of the nine islands.
Our arrival was too early to check into our hotel. So, we dropped our bags and grabbed breakfast. A delicious bowl of yogurt and fresh fruit and scrambled eggs plus an assortment of Azores bread.
Breakfast
A few shots of the gates to the city and the reflection pond.
After refueling, we set out for an hike to the botanical garden of José do Canto. He lived during the 19th century and was an avid arborist. He planted a unique assortment of trees around his mansion and property. We enjoyed a nice stroll admiring his eclectic green thumb.
Palm Tree TrailPaper BarkJoséBig Fig TreeThe tree who wants to hug youBambooAnother big Fig TreeHydrangea
We wondered back to city center. The streets of Ponta Delgado are made of black Basalt and White Limestone. They are lovely. Different streets have different designs.
By this point, we were running out of steam. Jet lag is real! We decided to have lunch and a beer. Priming ourselves for a nap. Pizza and beer!
Our timing was perfect. Right as we ordered, I received a call from our hotel informing us our room was ready! Yay! Nap time!
We woke up somewhat refreshed and wondered out to get provisions for our hike in the morning and a small snack. Dinner consisted of a cheese board, olives, and local wine from the island of Pico.
After dinner, we headed back to the hotel because in the morning we have a 7am flight to Pico followed by a 7 mile hike. Adventure awaits! As always, thanks for reading.
Visiting Crystal River, in the winter, has been on my Florida bucket list since we moved here. Besides being a cute little Florida town on the bay, it’s the Manatee Capital of the World! And you can go swim with them!!
I arranged for us to go on a snorkel trip Saturday morning with Go Local tour company. The captain and guide, Dylan and Derick were fantastic. We had a small group tour. Only 3 of us got in the water because the air temperature was extra chilly!
The manatees come to Crystal River to stay warm in the springs. The springs stay 72 degrees year round. Here are some fun facts about manatees. Considering their size, they have very low body fat – 4-5%. Also, their metabolism is very slow and it’s difficult for them to stay warm. So, they migrate to the warm water springs to get warm. The leading cause of manatee death is hyperthermia. This occurs when they are in water less than 68 degrees.
Watch for the baby at the end
Manatees have no predators and are not scared of humans. In fact, they are very curious and gentle giants. Did you know their closest relatives are elephants!! Adults average 10-15 feet long and weight 900-1500lbs!
They use their arms to crawl along the bottom
It was incredible to be in the water with them. They were so curious and got so close. I had to remind myself they were friendly!! This video shows one surfacing to breathe. They can hold their breath for 20 minutes when they sleep.
I loved how they would give me the side eye when they swam by.
This video was right at the end of our swim. The one at the end came up to breathe right in front of me. The guide then got my picture with him!! I think he looks like he’s smiling!
After this picture, the guide asked if I was ok. The other two ladies in our tour swam back to the boat about 20 minutes before. I said I was good and he saw my blue lips! He declared it was time for us to go back! Dave told him they would have to drag me out! That’s exactly what he did!
Dave shot this video of one eating stuff off the boat lines.
It truly was an incredible experience. I highly recommend it! Crystal River is a cute old Florida town. I didn’t take pictures of our meals. They were delicious. We went to St. Johns Tavern Friday night. The Rueben was yummy. Saturday we went to BubbaQue’s BBQ. Another delicious meal and the brisket was fantastic. We stayed at The Retreat at Crystal River. Lovely hotel. I highly recommend!
As I was looking at my list of things to do in Tokyo, I realized I still had one garden to visit from the article about finding wabi-sabi in Tokyo. I hadn’t had the chance to visit the Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Garden in Tokyo. The Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Garden is located on the north side of Tokyo, near Ueno Park.
It took about an hour and 20 minutes to get there on the train. With the rain gone, it was such a beautiful day, I was happy to be out and about.
The Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Garden was built in 1896. The main residence is a western style building that was owned by Iwasaki Hisaya, the third president of Mitsubishi. The entrance to the Garden leads directly to the western residence. Currently, scaffolding was covering the front of the residence.
The inside of the residence was spectacular. The route to explore the residence allowed visitors to go throughout the two floors.
There is a large two-story porch on the southern side of the house. The east side of the porch is enclosed.
The wallpaper in the house is valuable Japanese leather paper. I took a close up picture of the paper and the large stamping tool.
The western residence is connected to the Japanese residence. Only a small portion of the Japanese residence remains. Tatami mats covered the floors and intricate drawings adorned the walls. The views of the gardens looking out were so serene.
The third building within the garden is the Billiard Room. The Billiard Room is detached from the Western Residence. However, there is an underground passageway connecting the two buildings. The Billiards Room was designed and built like a mountain lodge found in Switzerland. Notice the high ceilings!
The grounds of the garden have been reduced to only a third of the original size. Urbanization has claimed the other two-thirds. The grounds are a blend of Japanese and Western styles. As I walked the grounds, it was easy to be transported away from the bustling city. The garden is distinctively Japanese.
My favorite structure in the garden was the gigantic lantern. It had to be at least 12-15 feet high.
Looking back at the buildings and viewing the large lawn, it is easy to see the western influence. Simultaneously, you can see how close the encroaching buildings are to the garden.
This picture might be my favorite from the day. I like it because it captures the eastern and western gardens and the western residence is in the background along with the urbanization of Tokyo. I think it nicely captures the wabi-sabi of the Gardens.
I imagine this garden isn’t visited very often, because of its proximity to Ueno Park. Most tourist want to visit the many attractions at Ueno – zoo, museums, etc. I have visited Ueno Park (during Sakura season) and honestly, I enjoyed the quiet and serenity of this park much more. I definitely found my wabi-sabi.
The second garden I was able to visit on my Wabi-Sabi list was the Kyu Shiba Rikyu Garden. The garden is located on the south side of Tokyo and only about an hour and fifteen minute train ride.
On my walk from the train station to he garden I was passed several times by the Shinkansen. Seeing the train still makes me happy. I can’t wait to plan another trip!
Also, on my walk to the garden, I passed several beautiful hydrangeas blooming along the street. The hydrangeas alternated blue and purple. They were stunning.
The garden was a bit smaller than the Hamarikyu Garden and again nestled in the middle of the surrounding city. The garden centers around a pond with a designated path to travel around and across the pond.
Along your journey around the pond, there are many beautiful land and rock formations to look at and perhaps contemplate the passing of time.
There was also one beautiful hydrangea blooming in the garden.
As I was walking through the garden, I came across these interesting rock stairs.
Originally, I thought they were just a cute path to follow. While reading the brochure, I realized they were there to simulate a “waterless waterfall.” The intention was to remind visitors of water coming off the mountains and flowing into the pond. Can you see it?
On the far side of the pond was a group of artist painting the garden with watercolors. For every artist you see in this picture, there are two tucked in somewhere else. They obviously found their wabi-sabi.
There were so many different features along the path. I enjoyed the stones and islands.
Can you see the turtles?
A beautiful view! Without a doubt, I was able to experience wabi-sabi in this lovely little garden. When you visit, if we need a quiet break from the hustle and bustle of the city, we can take a detour. It was worth the ¥150.
Recently, I read an article discussing five different gardens in Tokyo to discover wabi-sabi. I bookmarked the article and added all five of the gardens to my saved places in Google Maps. I found the definition of wabi-sabi used in the article interesting. “To Japanese people, there is a peculiar sense of aesthetics called “Wabi-sabi” where it is key to find the beauty in silence and the passing of time.” Other definitions I have found describe wabi-sabi as finding the beauty in the imperfections and also accepting transience. Accepting the passing of time and change is similar in both these descriptions. I also appreciate the ability to beauty in silence. Each of the gardens listed are located in a Tokyo and surrounded by the city. Visiting Hama-rikyu today, the sights and sounds of the city were all around. Finding a quiet spot in the garden was easy. Many people were enjoying their lunch as I arrived.
A couple things about the Hama-rikyu Gardens makes it very unique. It has a large pond that is fed by seawater from the Tokyo Bay. The pond has several lock gates that are opened and closed with the rise and fall of the tides of the Tokyo Bay. This creates a tidal affect within the pond.
The other unique thing about the garden were the two Kamoba or Duck hunting sites. They were both built in the late 1700s. The sites consisted of a large pond used to attract the ducks.
The hunters would lure the ducks into the pond with grasses and domesticated ducks while they hid in deep trenches.
Another hunter would stand watch in a wooden shack and watch the pond.
I took this picture looking out the peep holes in the hunting shack out over the pond.
On cue, someone would make a loud noise or distraction causing the ducks to take flight. The hunters would catch the ducks with long nets! Here was the sign that accompanied the explanation.
In true Japanese kindness, there is now a shrine dedicated to the ducks who were hunted.
The main pond of the garden was beautiful. The view of the Tokyo skyline provided a dynamic contrast with the natural setting of the garden.
There were a couple iris gardens blooming and one hydrangea bush in full bloom. The rest of the hydrangeas were not quite blooming yet.
Another notable mention within the garden was the 300 year old pine tree. It was gigantic and well supported with numerous wood braces and stantions.
The O-tsutai-bashi is the 118m long bridge over the center of the lake was renovated in 2012. The wisteria trellis are beautiful and make me want to visit again next spring to see them in bloom!
The garden did help me find my own definition of wabi-sabi. The way the garden was nestled in with so many city skyscrapers helped me to see and appreciate the beauty of nature and industry. Simultaneously, the city sounds of construction work, trains, and traffic helped me to experience and be settled with time passing. It was an enjoyable adventure to discover a beautiful garden in an urban environment with the intentions of experiencing wabi-sabi.
