Finding Beauty with Imperfection

Category: Ferry

Coastal Lighthouse Hike

Thursday we had an easy coastal hike to see the coast, obviously, and also two lighthouses. A volcanic eruption lasting from September 1957 until October 1958 caused the land to 2.4 square km. The reason there are two lighthouses is because the original one has been shut down since the eruption and the new lighthouse was constructed. We have noticed the lighthouses on the islands seem to be very utilitarian vice scenic. Perhaps, the Portuguese don’t want to take away from the beauty of the land and the ocean…

The hike along the coast was beautiful. All the volcanic rocks! They were so jagged and rough. It’s amazing to think these were projected during the explosion.

Peering over the edge, the jagged lava rocks have been completely smoothed by the waves. The power of water is intense!

There was cute little beach area that had umbrellas and swimming access.

Waves

We finished the last part of the hike up to the old lighthouse. This one we were able to climb to the top. Also, they have a museum built underground. The circle is the roof of the museum.

The area now is protected because there are several species of birds nesting in the rocks and cliffs. Here is a video from the top of the lighthouse. I zoomed in to see the birds.

Spiral stairs in lighthouse

After our hike, museum tour and lighthouse climb, we met our driver, Jeffery, who drove us back to town. We found a nice little cafe to enjoy lunch with a view of Mt Pico and the company of bird friends.

We had a few hours to burn this afternoon before our flight back to Ponta Delgado. We shopped the town and took more pictures of the fun street designs.

One final wave goodbye to Faisal as we board our flight!

Off we go! Back to Ponta Delgado. We have one more full day of adventure before we head home. As always, thanks for reading!

Hiking Levada – Faial Island

We had an early start Wednesday morning in order to catch the ferry from São Jorge to Faial island. The three islands, Pico, São Jorge and Faial are known as the “Azores Triangle.” The ferry system makes it very easy to hop from one island to another. We will be staying in the city center of Horta. Horta is known as the “bustling hub” with its large marina and international airport.

Leaving Velas

Upon arrival in Horta, we met our driver Jeffery. We discussed our hike options because the weather is still very overcast with chances of rain. He suggested we revise our scheduled 15 km (9.3 miles) walk and make it a 9km (5.6 miles). We would still walk around the caldera but reroute down and over instead of walking all the way down to the coast in the clouds with no view. We trusted his local knowledge and off we went! The hike started at the top of the volcano and went around the caldera. The fog and wind were present the entire time! Jeffery told us only 50% of his hikers have a chance to see the bottom of the caldera. We kept our fingers crossed to be part of that 50%!

As we walked around the caldera, the winds would blow the fog away for a few seconds and we could catch glimpses of the bottom.

A quick video of the wind, fog and caldera.

The wind was so STRONG!

As we continued around, we could catch glimpses of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance.

A few more pictures from the caldera loop. it was really fun to watch the trail disappear as we hiked.

The second part of the hike was an easy downhill along an access road. The lower section of this road would have consisted of the 6km we didn’t hike. We were glad we chose this route instead!

The third part of the hike was through a well established trail through the forest. We hiked along the manmade canal the entire way. The trail did get a bit muddy at times. Making it all the more fun and adventurous.

Several times we had to cross bridges to continue. The bridges were so well camouflaged!

At one point the trail became very muddy. There was no way around but through!

Several of the trees were very unique!

A few flower pictures to complete the lovely hike.

As we finished, we snapped a finish line selfie and a picture of our muddy boots. Plus, our Mercedes van and Jeffery patiently waiting. This was a very fun hike. We laughed so much about the strong winds and mud. It truly was an adventure!

We cleaned up and made our way out into the town for dinner. We decided on a local bar because rain was imminent. The bars were packed because the Portugal / RD Congo soccer game was on TV. We settled in and ordered yet another cheese plate and wine. So, yummy.

As always, thank you for reading! Cheers!

Lighthouse Hike

Tuesday’s adventure on São Jorge was a 10km hike out to a lighthouse on the eastern end of the island. First, breakfast. We are staying at Casa do Antonio. It is a very lovely bed and breakfast right in the downtown of Velas. Breakfast was simple and included all the important items: coffee, yogurt, and cheese! Four different types of cheese all made here in the island.

After breakfast, our driver Antonio, picked us up to take us to the start of the hike. We were supposed to hike an extra long hike from crest to crest and then hike down similar to what we did yesterday. But, the weather didn’t cooperate. It is very foggy this morning at “higher” elevations. Instead, Antonio recommended a hike out to the lighthouse. Sounds good – let’s go!

Instead of using Macs Adventure app to track our hike I used AllTrails. Antonia dropped us off and said to call him once we reached the park. Off we go! A foggy hike awaits.

The first half of the hike to the lighthouse was completely in the fog. Instead of focusing on the non existent view, we turned our attention to the beautiful fauna.

Prior to reaching the lighthouse, we climbed stairs to view an old whale spotting shelter. Whaling was legal for about 100 years before being globally banded in 1986.

We ate lunch by the whale spotting tower and watched as the fog rolled in and out. Trying to burn off…

After our picnic lunch, we made our way to the lighthouse. It was definitely not picturesque lighthouse we were expecting!!

Well. Let’s keep going…. Back up / down the foggy trail we go!

I took a picture of the sign showing this was a protected area. If you look closely, you can see where the lighthouse is located and how much the island continues and juts out in a very narrow ridge with steep cliffs on either side.

Our hike back took us past many pastures with lots of happy cows.

Without fail, we made it to the park. I called Antonio and let him know we made it and ready for a pickup. He gave me a 40 minute standby. Which worked out because the park where we were meeting was unexpected as well. It had little trails throughout with lots of different trees, plants and moss!

Another unexpected find was a beautiful tile mural depicting how laundry was done. This was communal area beside an old church.

While we waited, we also saw a cow parade. We saw this group of cows on our way back from our hike. The farmers were using the bull to impregnate the cows. I’m assuming after his chance in the pen with the cows they take them back to their own farm for the night? Farm life is interesting.

Cow parade

Antonio picked us up and on the way back to our hotel, he arranged for us to have picnic breakfast for the early ferry and for a taxi to pick us up. His hospitality and attention to detail has been spot on! There are only two restaurants downtown Velas. Unfortunately, the one we didn’t try last night is closed on Tuesday. So, we returned to the same one and tried different plates – except the cheesy garlic bread. It was too good to not order again.

Tomorrow we catch an early ferry to the island of Faial. We are hoping for clearer weather because we are scheduled to hike around a volcano caldera. Thanks for reading!

Hiking Pilgram’s Pass

Monday morning we caught the ferry from Madalena on Pico Island to Velas on São Jorge Island. The process of checking in, checking our luggage, and then boarding the ferry was incredibly smooth and efficient.

Boarding selfie. You might notice a theme in our selfies today… crazy hair!

The ferry took about and 1.5 hours. Although the seas appeared calm, the ferry was a bit rocky!

We arrived in Velas around 11:15. Collected our luggage and meet our taxi driver without issue. We were not supposed to begin our hike until 1:30pm. We asked Antonio, our driver, if we could start as soon as possible. He had another group going as well and arranged with them to go early. He was so kind and accommodating. He dropped us at the hotel and went to get the group while we checked in. Our accommodation is a Bed and Breakfast, Casa de Antonio. Our host, Antonio, had our room ready and helped us check in and then showed us to our room. The hospitality was top notch. Our driver, Antonio, returned and off we went on our 5.6 mile hike!

The Pilgram’s Path hike is known to be one of the most beautiful on the island. It begins at Topo, one of the island’s crests, and descends down to the north coast. It was used by pilgrims to reach the wild north coast which is still very isolated.

We had been given many warnings the trail is very steep especially in the beginning. The warnings were validated as we descended! But, first – the view!

If only we were a few weeks later, we would see all the hydrangeas in bloom.

The views were incredible. I’m not sure I’ve seen anything like it before. It was so quiet and peaceful.

As we descended, the trail would change and close in and yet remained very rocky.

About 2/3 of the way down we stopped to enjoy our picnic lunch. Perhaps our peanut butter and crackers and an apple weren’t gourmet… but, the view certainly was!

View from our picnic lunch

As we continued down, we caught up with a river and a little waterfall.

Plus, at lower the lower elevation we started to see blooming hydrangeas.

We saw this roof from above and it looked tiny. Obviously, human size once we were next to it. And our first view of the island’s north coastline.

Fajā Santo Cristo is a one of a kind sight. Only accessible by foot (or now also 4 wheelers) it has a beautiful church and lagoon. This was my first time actually walking through a hamlet!

The north coast is protected and now considered a surfer’s paradise. As we climbed back up it was easy to understand why. The wave train had perfectly timed crests.

We continued our “relatively” flat climb for the second half of our hike. The dirt/ rock trail had lots of ups and downs with more amazing views.

One of my favorite pictures of the day. My mom celebrated her 77th birthday today and here she is at trail marker 77!

Happy 77th birthday!

We made it to the finish line a bit later than we hoped. We truly “savored” the experience. I called Antonio earlier and let him know we were running late. He was so kind and understanding. We also met up with the other hikers he was transferring. They had used the extra time to swim in the lagoon. On our way home, we ran into a cow jam. The farmers walk their cows to the milking building and then walk them back to their farm. Truly happy cows make the best cheese! São Jorge is known for their delicious cheese!

We returned to the hotel, showered, and went out to dinner!

It was an amazing day. The hike was one of the most beautiful hikes I’ve ever done. I would also rate it as a moderate challenge with the amount of descent we did. As always, thanks for reading!

Milos to Santorini

This morning we said goodbye to the island of Milos. As they say, all good things come to an end. I truly enjoyed the time we spent on Milos and Kimolos. Both islands are so beautiful and quaint. They are an absolute treasure.

We had one final breakfast at the hotel. I made a wiser choice this morning and opted for a hot ham and cheese sandwich. It was exactly as advertised. Plus, fresh fruit. I will miss my breakfast friend, neco.

Here is a screen shot of our journey to Santorini. We are going to Santorini via ferry with a stop at Ios.

The Greek ferry system is impressive. They have the embarking and debarking of passengers down to a science. I can honestly compare it to the Japanese and their train efficiency. The ferry will leave on time and you need to be ready to move as required. This ferry was a SeaJet. It was larger than the one from Athens to Milos and we had assigned seats. Luggage was stored in the lower area. It was organized chaos as passengers placed their luggage and then went upstairs to find their seats.

The view of the islands along the way was so beautiful and entertaining. Our ferry left at 12:20. Mom and I enjoyed lunch onboard. She asked the staff for vegetarian options. They encouraged her to buy both the ring with cheese, peppers and olives and the spinach and cheese – spanakopita. Both were delicious. We shared them plus a beer each.

Our first stop was Ios. I now have a place I need to return and visit. It looked beautiful and quaint. The ferries have forward and aft thrusters which allow them to turn “on a dime”. Never have I seen a ship pull into port and create such beautiful churn. I know I’ve said this before. The water is so blue and beautiful. More proof here in the pictures.

After Ios, we had another 30ish minutes on the ferry to Santorini. We made our way to our luggage once we were able. Being upfront to watch the doors drop and the passengers disembark was a sight! The ferry was still moving forward when the doors were dropping.

Finally the ferry turned and we had our first glimpse of the Athinios Port. I’m not sure what I was expecting… but, it wasn’t a giant rock face. Plus all the people coming and going in every direction. Wow! Our tour has arranged our logistics. Our driver was there waiting for us on time and with a smile.

The drive from Port Athinios to our hotel in Fira should take about 20 minutes it’s about 5 miles. It took us over an hour! The traffic was so terrible getting out of the port and then we had to drive up the cliff on a very windy and narrow road. Fortunately, we had an expert driver.

Our hotel is in Fira and it is amazing. It is built into the side of the mountain. We still haven’t figured out the room layout. But, we know how to find ours!

We got settled and had a glass of wine by the pool as we discussed our evening plans. We decided to talk a walk, meander around town and find dinner. We did all of that AND enjoyed a dinner sunset.

I also met my first Santorini neco. He was so cute.

We picked a perfect spot for dinner. Vanilla was the name of the restaurant. We were in the shade of the setting sun and had a view of the sunset. My mom was debating between the fish and chips and the grilled sun beam fresh catch of the day. She opted for the fresh catch. I ordered the bang bang shrimp and fries. And we split a Greek salad. As we were waiting for our food to arrive, somehow the conversation led to them serving her a whole fish. I asked her if it said filet or fish. She said fish. Hmmmm… I said, I think they are going to bring you a whole fish. Sure enough!

Our waiter asked if he could open it for her. Yes, please!

Here is a video of him prepping the fish. Clearly, he’s an expert.

Video of our waiter opening the fish

We enjoyed dinner as we watched the sunset. We truly had another amazing day enjoying all that Greece has to offer. Tomorrow we set off for another hike.

As always, thank you for reading!

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