Wabi-Sabi Sole

Finding Beauty with Imperfection

Coastal Lighthouse Hike

Thursday we had an easy coastal hike to see the coast, obviously, and also two lighthouses. A volcanic eruption lasting from September 1957 until October 1958 caused the land to 2.4 square km. The reason there are two lighthouses is because the original one has been shut down since the eruption and the new lighthouse was constructed. We have noticed the lighthouses on the islands seem to be very utilitarian vice scenic. Perhaps, the Portuguese don’t want to take away from the beauty of the land and the ocean…

The hike along the coast was beautiful. All the volcanic rocks! They were so jagged and rough. It’s amazing to think these were projected during the explosion.

Peering over the edge, the jagged lava rocks have been completely smoothed by the waves. The power of water is intense!

There was cute little beach area that had umbrellas and swimming access.

Waves

We finished the last part of the hike up to the old lighthouse. This one we were able to climb to the top. Also, they have a museum built underground. The circle is the roof of the museum.

The area now is protected because there are several species of birds nesting in the rocks and cliffs. Here is a video from the top of the lighthouse. I zoomed in to see the birds.

Spiral stairs in lighthouse

After our hike, museum tour and lighthouse climb, we met our driver, Jeffery, who drove us back to town. We found a nice little cafe to enjoy lunch with a view of Mt Pico and the company of bird friends.

We had a few hours to burn this afternoon before our flight back to Ponta Delgado. We shopped the town and took more pictures of the fun street designs.

One final wave goodbye to Faisal as we board our flight!

Off we go! Back to Ponta Delgado. We have one more full day of adventure before we head home. As always, thanks for reading!

Hiking Levada – Faial Island

We had an early start Wednesday morning in order to catch the ferry from São Jorge to Faial island. The three islands, Pico, São Jorge and Faial are known as the “Azores Triangle.” The ferry system makes it very easy to hop from one island to another. We will be staying in the city center of Horta. Horta is known as the “bustling hub” with its large marina and international airport.

Leaving Velas

Upon arrival in Horta, we met our driver Jeffery. We discussed our hike options because the weather is still very overcast with chances of rain. He suggested we revise our scheduled 15 km (9.3 miles) walk and make it a 9km (5.6 miles). We would still walk around the caldera but reroute down and over instead of walking all the way down to the coast in the clouds with no view. We trusted his local knowledge and off we went! The hike started at the top of the volcano and went around the caldera. The fog and wind were present the entire time! Jeffery told us only 50% of his hikers have a chance to see the bottom of the caldera. We kept our fingers crossed to be part of that 50%!

As we walked around the caldera, the winds would blow the fog away for a few seconds and we could catch glimpses of the bottom.

A quick video of the wind, fog and caldera.

The wind was so STRONG!

As we continued around, we could catch glimpses of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance.

A few more pictures from the caldera loop. it was really fun to watch the trail disappear as we hiked.

The second part of the hike was an easy downhill along an access road. The lower section of this road would have consisted of the 6km we didn’t hike. We were glad we chose this route instead!

The third part of the hike was through a well established trail through the forest. We hiked along the manmade canal the entire way. The trail did get a bit muddy at times. Making it all the more fun and adventurous.

Several times we had to cross bridges to continue. The bridges were so well camouflaged!

At one point the trail became very muddy. There was no way around but through!

Several of the trees were very unique!

A few flower pictures to complete the lovely hike.

As we finished, we snapped a finish line selfie and a picture of our muddy boots. Plus, our Mercedes van and Jeffery patiently waiting. This was a very fun hike. We laughed so much about the strong winds and mud. It truly was an adventure!

We cleaned up and made our way out into the town for dinner. We decided on a local bar because rain was imminent. The bars were packed because the Portugal / RD Congo soccer game was on TV. We settled in and ordered yet another cheese plate and wine. So, yummy.

As always, thank you for reading! Cheers!

Lighthouse Hike

Tuesday’s adventure on São Jorge was a 10km hike out to a lighthouse on the eastern end of the island. First, breakfast. We are staying at Casa do Antonio. It is a very lovely bed and breakfast right in the downtown of Velas. Breakfast was simple and included all the important items: coffee, yogurt, and cheese! Four different types of cheese all made here in the island.

After breakfast, our driver Antonio, picked us up to take us to the start of the hike. We were supposed to hike an extra long hike from crest to crest and then hike down similar to what we did yesterday. But, the weather didn’t cooperate. It is very foggy this morning at “higher” elevations. Instead, Antonio recommended a hike out to the lighthouse. Sounds good – let’s go!

Instead of using Macs Adventure app to track our hike I used AllTrails. Antonia dropped us off and said to call him once we reached the park. Off we go! A foggy hike awaits.

The first half of the hike to the lighthouse was completely in the fog. Instead of focusing on the non existent view, we turned our attention to the beautiful fauna.

Prior to reaching the lighthouse, we climbed stairs to view an old whale spotting shelter. Whaling was legal for about 100 years before being globally banded in 1986.

We ate lunch by the whale spotting tower and watched as the fog rolled in and out. Trying to burn off…

After our picnic lunch, we made our way to the lighthouse. It was definitely not picturesque lighthouse we were expecting!!

Well. Let’s keep going…. Back up / down the foggy trail we go!

I took a picture of the sign showing this was a protected area. If you look closely, you can see where the lighthouse is located and how much the island continues and juts out in a very narrow ridge with steep cliffs on either side.

Our hike back took us past many pastures with lots of happy cows.

Without fail, we made it to the park. I called Antonio and let him know we made it and ready for a pickup. He gave me a 40 minute standby. Which worked out because the park where we were meeting was unexpected as well. It had little trails throughout with lots of different trees, plants and moss!

Another unexpected find was a beautiful tile mural depicting how laundry was done. This was communal area beside an old church.

While we waited, we also saw a cow parade. We saw this group of cows on our way back from our hike. The farmers were using the bull to impregnate the cows. I’m assuming after his chance in the pen with the cows they take them back to their own farm for the night? Farm life is interesting.

Cow parade

Antonio picked us up and on the way back to our hotel, he arranged for us to have picnic breakfast for the early ferry and for a taxi to pick us up. His hospitality and attention to detail has been spot on! There are only two restaurants downtown Velas. Unfortunately, the one we didn’t try last night is closed on Tuesday. So, we returned to the same one and tried different plates – except the cheesy garlic bread. It was too good to not order again.

Tomorrow we catch an early ferry to the island of Faial. We are hoping for clearer weather because we are scheduled to hike around a volcano caldera. Thanks for reading!

Hiking Pilgram’s Pass

Monday morning we caught the ferry from Madalena on Pico Island to Velas on São Jorge Island. The process of checking in, checking our luggage, and then boarding the ferry was incredibly smooth and efficient.

Boarding selfie. You might notice a theme in our selfies today… crazy hair!

The ferry took about and 1.5 hours. Although the seas appeared calm, the ferry was a bit rocky!

We arrived in Velas around 11:15. Collected our luggage and meet our taxi driver without issue. We were not supposed to begin our hike until 1:30pm. We asked Antonio, our driver, if we could start as soon as possible. He had another group going as well and arranged with them to go early. He was so kind and accommodating. He dropped us at the hotel and went to get the group while we checked in. Our accommodation is a Bed and Breakfast, Casa de Antonio. Our host, Antonio, had our room ready and helped us check in and then showed us to our room. The hospitality was top notch. Our driver, Antonio, returned and off we went on our 5.6 mile hike!

The Pilgram’s Path hike is known to be one of the most beautiful on the island. It begins at Topo, one of the island’s crests, and descends down to the north coast. It was used by pilgrims to reach the wild north coast which is still very isolated.

We had been given many warnings the trail is very steep especially in the beginning. The warnings were validated as we descended! But, first – the view!

If only we were a few weeks later, we would see all the hydrangeas in bloom.

The views were incredible. I’m not sure I’ve seen anything like it before. It was so quiet and peaceful.

As we descended, the trail would change and close in and yet remained very rocky.

About 2/3 of the way down we stopped to enjoy our picnic lunch. Perhaps our peanut butter and crackers and an apple weren’t gourmet… but, the view certainly was!

View from our picnic lunch

As we continued down, we caught up with a river and a little waterfall.

Plus, at lower the lower elevation we started to see blooming hydrangeas.

We saw this roof from above and it looked tiny. Obviously, human size once we were next to it. And our first view of the island’s north coastline.

Fajā Santo Cristo is a one of a kind sight. Only accessible by foot (or now also 4 wheelers) it has a beautiful church and lagoon. This was my first time actually walking through a hamlet!

The north coast is protected and now considered a surfer’s paradise. As we climbed back up it was easy to understand why. The wave train had perfectly timed crests.

We continued our “relatively” flat climb for the second half of our hike. The dirt/ rock trail had lots of ups and downs with more amazing views.

One of my favorite pictures of the day. My mom celebrated her 77th birthday today and here she is at trail marker 77!

Happy 77th birthday!

We made it to the finish line a bit later than we hoped. We truly “savored” the experience. I called Antonio earlier and let him know we were running late. He was so kind and understanding. We also met up with the other hikers he was transferring. They had used the extra time to swim in the lagoon. On our way home, we ran into a cow jam. The farmers walk their cows to the milking building and then walk them back to their farm. Truly happy cows make the best cheese! São Jorge is known for their delicious cheese!

We returned to the hotel, showered, and went out to dinner!

It was an amazing day. The hike was one of the most beautiful hikes I’ve ever done. I would also rate it as a moderate challenge with the amount of descent we did. As always, thanks for reading!

Hiking Church to Church in Pico

Our Saturday started early with a 4:15 reveille in order to catch a 7am flight from Porta Delgado to Pico. The flight was quick – about 45 minutes. The plane was cute but not terribly small.

Like most islands you cross the tarmac to board

Our transfer dropped us at our hotel. We were prepared to drop our bags and start hiking while we waited for our room. However, to our delight, the room was ready and we were invited to enjoy breakfast. Yes, please! After breakfast, we headed out for our 7.6 mile coastal hike. The hike started and ended at a church.

The starting church

The hike took us along the beautiful coastline.

The hike hugged the coast in the beginning and gave us so many beautiful views of huge rocks and Faial Island. We will visit Faial island towards the end of our trip.

We have been hoping to see hydrangeas in bloom. And we did! So many and so many colors.

The other interesting part of the hike was all the grapevines and the creative way they have adapted to grow them. To protect the vines from wind and weather, they use the basalt rock to build half circles around them. This blocks the wind/ weather and also provides the vines with support as they grow.

We followed the trail provided by Macs Adventure and it was also well marked with horizontal red and yellow lines. There would be a yellow and red X if you went the wrong way and a red turn if you needed to turn.

One of my favorite parts of the hike took us between the grapevine and down a rocky corridor. So unique.

Along the route there were several natural swimming holes. We were tempted to jump in for a swim… but, the morning was still cool and we kept on stepping. Plus, the waves were pretty intense.

The trail took us inland a couple times and the temperature would warm and the breeze would stop. Also, we had quite a few up and downs. Eventually, we had one final uphill push to our finish line church.

We had a taxi pick us up and returned us to the hotel. Our hike was 7.67 miles and took us about 4 hours. It was a good hike to work off the jet lag and help us get acclimated. We picked a Tapas & wine bar for dinner. We ordered tuna tataki, shrimp bao bun and tempura veggies. Plus wine. And dessert. Crème brûlée and cheesecake. Absolutely, delicious.

It was a very delightful day and I was definitely ready to sleep by the end. As always, thank you for reading.

Florida to Ponta Delgado

Summer vacation! My mom and I left Florida Thursday morning. Our destination- Ponta Delgado in the Azores. We had a slightly long layer over in Boston before catching our red eye flight to the big island of São Miguel.

Boston!

The Azores are a collection of nine islands off the coast of Portugal. We are using the same company, Macs Adventure, as we used when we went to Greece a couple years ago. They arrange all of our transfers, accommodations and hikes. We will spend the week hopping around four of the nine islands.

Our arrival was too early to check into our hotel. So, we dropped our bags and grabbed breakfast. A delicious bowl of yogurt and fresh fruit and scrambled eggs plus an assortment of Azores bread.

Breakfast

A few shots of the gates to the city and the reflection pond.

After refueling, we set out for an hike to the botanical garden of José do Canto. He lived during the 19th century and was an avid arborist. He planted a unique assortment of trees around his mansion and property. We enjoyed a nice stroll admiring his eclectic green thumb.

We wondered back to city center. The streets of Ponta Delgado are made of black Basalt and White Limestone. They are lovely. Different streets have different designs.

By this point, we were running out of steam. Jet lag is real! We decided to have lunch and a beer. Priming ourselves for a nap. Pizza and beer!

Our timing was perfect. Right as we ordered, I received a call from our hotel informing us our room was ready! Yay! Nap time!

We woke up somewhat refreshed and wondered out to get provisions for our hike in the morning and a small snack. Dinner consisted of a cheese board, olives, and local wine from the island of Pico.

After dinner, we headed back to the hotel because in the morning we have a 7am flight to Pico followed by a 7 mile hike. Adventure awaits! As always, thanks for reading.

Crystal River, FL

Visiting Crystal River, in the winter, has been on my Florida bucket list since we moved here. Besides being a cute little Florida town on the bay, it’s the Manatee Capital of the World! And you can go swim with them!!

I arranged for us to go on a snorkel trip Saturday morning with Go Local tour company. The captain and guide, Dylan and Derick were fantastic. We had a small group tour. Only 3 of us got in the water because the air temperature was extra chilly!

The manatees come to Crystal River to stay warm in the springs. The springs stay 72 degrees year round. Here are some fun facts about manatees. Considering their size, they have very low body fat – 4-5%. Also, their metabolism is very slow and it’s difficult for them to stay warm. So, they migrate to the warm water springs to get warm. The leading cause of manatee death is hyperthermia. This occurs when they are in water less than 68 degrees.

Watch for the baby at the end

Manatees have no predators and are not scared of humans. In fact, they are very curious and gentle giants. Did you know their closest relatives are elephants!! Adults average 10-15 feet long and weight 900-1500lbs!

They use their arms to crawl along the bottom

It was incredible to be in the water with them. They were so curious and got so close. I had to remind myself they were friendly!! This video shows one surfacing to breathe. They can hold their breath for 20 minutes when they sleep.

I loved how they would give me the side eye when they swam by.

This video was right at the end of our swim. The one at the end came up to breathe right in front of me. The guide then got my picture with him!! I think he looks like he’s smiling!

After this picture, the guide asked if I was ok. The other two ladies in our tour swam back to the boat about 20 minutes before. I said I was good and he saw my blue lips! He declared it was time for us to go back! Dave told him they would have to drag me out! That’s exactly what he did!

Dave shot this video of one eating stuff off the boat lines.

It truly was an incredible experience. I highly recommend it! Crystal River is a cute old Florida town. I didn’t take pictures of our meals. They were delicious. We went to St. Johns Tavern Friday night. The Rueben was yummy. Saturday we went to BubbaQue’s BBQ. Another delicious meal and the brisket was fantastic. We stayed at The Retreat at Crystal River. Lovely hotel. I highly recommend!

As always, thanks for reading!

Bird is the Word

Monday we left the coast and drove to Eugene, OR. It rained the entire drive and day for that matter. We’ve been so fortunate to have sunny days along the coast we didn’t complain. Our drive took us south to California and then west along the Redwood Highway. Yay! Big Trees!

Once we made it to Grants Pass, we hoped on the I-5 and worked our way north. Beautiful scenery along the curvy interstate.

Our reservation for the night was at the Graduate Hotel. If you ever get the chance, stay at a Graduate Hotel. They are the cutest. We stayed at one in Bloomington, IN a few years ago and loved it. We knew we would enjoy this one as well. Staying in Oregon Duck country, the room hit the mark.

Meanwhile in the Lobby….

For dinner we went to Silver Falls Brewery. We shared a pizza and salad.

After dinner we went to a fun speakeasy. After ringing the bell, you have to share the password to be let in. Unfortunately, we didn’t know it. However, on a Monday night, the bartender was happy to let us in & share the password. “Bird is the word.”

Bird is the word

Inside the speakeasy had a well stocked bar and cozy seating.

Eugene was a great town to stop for the night and no doubt we could enjoy even more if we had more time. Final stretch back to Portland today. We catch the red eye home. Thanks for following along! Thanks for reading.

Coos Bay to Brookings

Before leaving Coos Bay, we drove over to Sunset Bay State Park. Another lovely state park with a beautiful beach and lighthouse.

Our drive south along the 101 from Coos Bay to Brookings was a little over two hours. Since we didn’t have Alfred to accompany us, I used another app called Autio. Autio has short 2-3 minute stories about places near you while you’re on a road trip. We used it a lot during our nomadic adventures in 2022. The stories are usually historical and informative. It was fun to learn about the small towns we were driving through. For example Bandon, OR is known for cheese and cranberries. Did someone say cheese? We decided to stop and check out the creamery and the free samples. While we were stopped, we walked through town and found Tony’s Crab Shack. Its very unassuming appearance was a sure sign the crab would be delicious.

Tony’s

After confirming with a local, we decided to have lunch.

After lunch, we were back in the car heading south. Next planned stop was the Prehistoric Gardens. But, wait! I see rocks in the water! Pullover so I can take a picture! The view never gets old. These were taken near Port Orford.

Now, for the Prehistoric Gardens. Even Autio had something to say about this road side attraction. The Prehistoric Gardens was the vision of E.V. Nelson. He moved his family to Oregon in 1953. He decided on using the southern Oregon rainforest as the location to build his dream. The Gardens opened on January 1, 1955. The Prehistoric Gardens is still family owned and there are 23 life-size, cement dinosaurs. The rainforest is the perfect setting for the massive creatures. Here are a few of my favorites.

After returning from our time- travel, we were back in the car searching for more rocks in the water! Easy to find! These pictures were taken at Golds Beach. Perfect spot to stretch our legs.

Our next rock spotting was at Meyers Creek Beach.

We stopped at Arch Rock State Park to view the Arch Rock and others.

Down the road a little further was Natural Bridges.

Before we knew it, we had arrived in Brookings. We checked in early and went to find a cold beverage. Chetco Brewing was the solution.

Dave picked sushi for dinner. What’s not to love?

Sake, poke bowl and sashimi

Our hotel is right on the ocean and our room is on the third floor. We enjoyed another night of sleep with the slider door open and the waves crashing. The beach has so much driftwood. I wish I could bring home a couple big ones for the backyard!

It’s rainy this morning, messing up our hike plans. We’ve had amazing luck with the weather up until this point. We’ve head away from the coast today. Destination Eugene. See you soon! Thanks for reading!

Alfred Day

We had so much fun taking Alfred’s suggestions Friday we decided to make Saturday “Alfred Day”. We had a three hour drive down the coast from Lincoln City to Coos Bay. I already had a few spots marked and Alfred recommended all of them plus a few fun surprises. Off we go!

One final picture from our room in Lincoln City

Alfred’s first suggestion was to stop at Fogarty Creek State Recreation Area. Here we had a lovely view of the Pacific Ocean and Rabbit Rock.

We continued South on the 101. Our next stop, Boiler Bay, was also Alfred’s recommendation. The wave action was incredible.

Those are giant waves!!

Back in the car heading south, we drove through Depoe Bay. It is known for being the world’s smallest navigable harbor and whale watching adventures. Unfortunately, whale watching is best in the winter and early spring. We just had spanning views of beautiful Pacific Ocean!

Depoe Bay is in the background

Stopping at the Devil’s Punchbowl was on my list and also suggested by Alfred. Alfred had a hidden way for us to arrive. It was a little one- lane back road with a bike lane through Otter Rock. I took a video and Alfred is actually talking in it!

Devil’s Punchbowl was really cool and not what I was expecting. About 15-20 million years ago, the roofs of two adjacent sea caves collapsed as a result of erosion from waves and wind creating a large “Punchbowl”. The sea cave entrances are still there and can be accessed during low tide. Our timing was during high tide so we weren’t able to access the Punchbowl.

Once we were back on the 101, Alfred offered us a detour through the coastal town of Newport. We decided to take the detour. One reason was, we have seen “Mo’s” restaurants along the way and it has never been a good time for a meal. It was about 10 at this point and it opened at 11. Second reason, I thought we could shop for a bit and then eat lunch. Little did we know what awaited us! Sea lions!! They are so stinky and absolutely hilarious.

For your enjoyment- a short video. without the odor.

We shopped around and when Mo’s opened at 11 we were the second party seated. I need to tell you another Alfred story. Yesterday, as we were driving, he brought up food and specifically Oregon Coast clam chowder. Each day, we have shared a cup of chowder. Our favorite was at the Pelican in Cannon Beach. Alfred told us about Slumgullion. It’s Oregon clam chowder with Oregon pink shrimp on top. Mo’s was the first place Slumgullion has been on the menu. I felt compelled to order it. In a sour dough bread bowl. Seriously. It was delicious and our new favorite. The Caesar salad was good. We shared both.

After lunch we were back in the jeep heading south. Our next stop was at Seal Rock. Another of Alfred’s suggestions. The Oregon Coast views never get old or boring!

Wave Power!

The next stop was one I had marked and also one Alfred suggested. Devil’s Churn. It lived up to its name. Plus, we had a chance to walk a little around the other side of the cove. Again, beautiful.

Our next planned stop was one we were very excited about. Sea Lion Cave. I had it marked and Alfred mentioned it a couple of times. Apparently, sea lions hang out in the cave which you access via an elevator. It costs $18 a person. Except when the sea lions are out in the water preparing for winter and eating. Such was our experience. You can pay only $16 which includes a “rain cheque” for another entrance in a year. Whomp whomp. No sea lion caves for us. At least we had the joy of seeing them in Newport!

The credit goes to Albert for our next stop. Darlingtonia Wayside. It is a small area that has been set aside as a botanical preserve. It protects the fragile habitat of the Darlingtonia califorinica. Also known as the cobra-lily or pitcher plant. It is a carnivorous plant that attracts insects with its sweet smell and traps them, then digests them with bacteria juices in the stem. So cool. And oh so many! Thanks, Alfred. My science teacher heart was so happy.

Driving down 101 we were stuck in traffic for a quick minute. Only to realize a truck pulling fish crates toppled. Check it out. Notice the fish in the back of the truck and on the pavement. The guys were working so fast to get the fish in the truck!

As we rolled through Florence, OR, Alfred bid us farewell. We both were so sad to say goodbye to our friend. The Oregon Coast tour stopped after the central coast. Seriously, if you’re planning a road trip, check out GuideAlong. It is a really fun way to explore and learn about the area you’re exploring.

And finally, we arrived in Coos Bay where we are staying for the night. Based on the reviews and a couple bloggers, I picked Bay Point Landing. It’s an RV and glamping venue. Funny story. When we arrived, I went in to check us in. The receptionist tells me about the amenities- pointing in the direction of the indoor pool and she says also that’s where the showers and restrooms. Hmmmm… not sure how I feel about this. I thought we had a bath in our container… but, I didn’t say anything. I asked about laundry facilities. Yes, and she shows me on the map. And says there are also showers and restrooms (same building as laundry) that are closer to your cabin. Oh, no. We don’t have a bathroom? How did I f-k this up. I walk out to the car and say to Dave… I don’t know how I fu-ked this up but I did. Why, he asks. And I proceed to explain. He says, so very calmly, basically we are camping. Yeah… with a roof. And then I say “it’s only one night”. We drive around and look at the facilities. It’s very nicely kept. Then come to our container. I walk in and the kitchen is amazing. How in the world is there no bathroom. There is and it’s lovely. I’ve never been so happy! We’ve been laughing ever since. Our guess, the receptionist is new and didn’t know the difference between the containers. Some are smaller and probably don’t have a bathroom. Anyways, we are good, happy by the fire pit and did a load of laundry. Enjoy a video.

Campfire dinner. We picked up some smoked salmon and tuna for dinner. Plus crunchy curls and an apple from Trader Joe’s. Simple can be delicious.

We were hoping for another amazing sunset. Mother Nature had other plans. Dave told me to snap a picture before the fog completely rolls in. Sure enough…. Foggy fire pit night.

I appreciate you taking time to read to the end. That was a long one. As always, thanks for reading.

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